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The Pinnacle
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Tiger Snap? 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Glenn & Judy Schuler, Keith Houston
Page Views: 1,700
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Aug 13, 2002

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Description 

Tiger Snap is located just to the left of Balance, at the highest point of the trail that goes along the base of the Pinnacle. Remember to look for nice rocks to sit on.

Tiger Snap ascends a steep, right-facing dihedral with generously spaced bolts. There is potential for a ground fall between the second and third bolts. While the climbing is never desperate, overall it has a much more sustained nature than other routes at North Cheyenne Canyon. For some reason all the holds seem to face the wrong way.

After managing to get on the thing, carefully climb up the steep, right facing wall of the dihedral. The anchors are out of view and are found to the left of the top of the dihedral. Enjoy.


Protection 

Quickdraws, rope, and large nuts.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 4, 2011
By Terrence Johnson
Aug 4, 2003

Finally got this route today! This thing has been my nemesis for about a year now. It is a very sustained 10d the whole way up except right before the anchors where it gets easy. Although, in my humble opinion, I would rate the first move 11a. Be prepared for skin ripping crimpers. I disagree that you could bottom out between the second and third bolts (maybe someone added a bolt.). I felt very safe on this climb and it is perfect for taking whippers on. (I took a few on the way up.) I have taken, and have seen several people take a pretty good whipper going for the final bolt before the anchors ( I believe it is the sixth bolt.). The people who I have seen who made it to that bolt successfully were wimpering by the time they clipped it (myself included). Excellent route! I give it 3 stars.

By Chris Mack
Sep 13, 2006

This is a great line and a REALLY great line for Cheyenne Canyon. It offers a really nice position on a slightly airy prow, and it is pretty steep. The climbing is really good too and makes you think. The climb is also cool because it really makes you focus. I would say it is a relatively "heady" lead, due to the spacing. The rock IS rough, but offers excellent friction due to its sharpness. I would disagree on the "R" rating, as I also don't think you will bottom out between 2 and 3. This route has major whipper potential though, so climb carefully. I think just about any fall would be relatively clean though.

By kjdetlor
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 20, 2007

This is one of the few routes in the canyon that you MUST do if you are there. Really cool moves the entire way up. And again I too agree that the R rating is unneccesary, because the climbing through that area is the easiest bit on the entire route, no need to be scared off by that.

By JasonT
Aug 17, 2009

Really good climb with 2 sort of cruxes. The first to start the route which is a bouldery V3ish move and then below the anchors there is a balancy move to clip off of a small right crimp. Apparently that makes this climb an 11...I would say 10b if that. Still, this is one of the better climbs in Cheyenne which in my opinion beats anything in The Garden anyday.

By Brandon Schirm
From: colorado springs, co
Apr 19, 2010

I don't understand your post Jason T. If you say the start is V3ish, then that would convert to a 11b. A V2 is 11a according to a conversion chart, and this route is 10d I think in comparison to other routes in the canyon. But I do agree that it is a stellar line. Let's just try not to sandbag, ok. :)

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 10, 2010

no potential for groundfall unless your belayer is a complete nincompoop. Also there is a second pitch that is interesting for the sake of novelty, goes at about 5.8. You rappel the route.

By Glenn Schuler
From: Monument, Co.
Sep 30, 2010

FA: Glenn & Judy Schuler, Kieth Houston. This route was somewhat of an experiment for me, I learned to climb in Cheyenne Canyon and always wondered what some of the better sections of rock would climb like if sport tactics were applied. Really liked this climb but never got motivated enough to drill more routes here.
Not sure where Stewart came up with Tiger Snap? We never named the route. The last bolt should really be a foot lower than it is. I remember leading it after drilling and thinking wow did I ever F*&! myself here!! (I'm 5' 7") If some one wants to move it down, feel free.

By Bob Robertson
Oct 3, 2010

Glen, it was your route on the pinnacle that make us think of bolting some sport routes there. I also donít know were Stuart got some of the names, but one of the administrators, Leo Paik, fixed all the routes name for us. -Great route.

By Bobby Mikulas
Mar 31, 2011

This was a great route, awesome moves, fun variety with a layback section in there and some neat crimps and slopey stuff, too. I must, however, agree with the R rating for the distance between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. I was nervous about bottoming out, and I think you definitely would if you fell while clipping. The other issue I had with the route was the last bolt...I clipped into the right anchor and asked my belay to take. While clipping into the second anchor, the nut popped off the right bolt and I took a 30+ foot fall. Very scary and dangerous. Are all the bolts in Cheyenne this sketchy? This was my first time out there and my first route. I almost pooped my pants. The route was very fun though and agree with the crux being the last bolt before the anchor.

Right anchor of Tiger Snap.
Right anchor of Tiger Snap.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 1, 2011

Wow, dude, that sucks. I've never heard of that happening before in Cheyenne Canyon. That practically sounds like sabotage.

By slim
Administrator
Apr 4, 2011

I've actually seen this happen 3 times (twice at Shelf and once at Boulder Canyon). It usually surprises the hell out of the climber. Pretty scary.