Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Aria) - The Seasons (The Spring)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
48 T 
49 T 
Airy Aria T 
Blistered Toe T 
Bold-Ville T 
Broken Hammer T 
Carbs and Caffeine T 
Double Crack T 
Fall, The T,TR 
Fillipina T 
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 
High Jinx T 
Ivan and the Saum T 
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 
Lisa T 
Lito and the Swan T 
Los Tres Cabrones T 
Lost in Yellow  T 
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 
No Man's Land T 
Nose, The T 
Oblique Twique T 
Scary Area T 
Shit Creek T 
Spring (P1), The T 
Sting, The T 
Summer, The T 
Tiers of Fear T 
Torture Garden T 
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 
Vader T 
Ventre de Boeuf T 
Wasp Stop T 
Winter, The T 
Yellow Wall, The T 

Tiers of Fear 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Raffa & Clune, 1983
Page Views: 1,240
Submitted By: Sean Nelb on Feb 16, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure between Laughing Man to V-3 MORE INFO >>>


At a very shallow corner in between No Man's Land and Yellow Wall, just beneath the large triangle point in the roof above.


Wild and scary! Rarely climbed because of the intimidating, poorly protected last roof, which is supposed to take either a #4 Friend in a very shallow horizontal (nothing else fits) or small wires. Big moves, big falls, and lots of fun.

Climb a shallow dihedral to blocks. Angle right then back left over some flakes and blocks to a good stance in an alcove. Head up the right-facing corner, exiting left to the face for a few feet. At a good stance, traverse up and right, aiming for the narrow part of the large tiers. Pull over the first roof, then hand traverse left to a small bend. Pull the second roof, place some gear if you can find it, and make powerful moves through the final, pointy roof.

To descend, rap or head left to No Man's Land.


Small nuts to #2 Camalot (or #4 Friend for the crux). Mostly finger-sized pieces. Many shoulder or double slings.

For years this had an anchor just above the crux. In 2012, this anchor was missing, necessitating a traverse to No Man's Land. Rope drag was hell.

Comments on Tiers of Fear Add Comment
Show which comments
By bheller
From: SL UT
Apr 27, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13

Are you sure a new BD cam won't fit?
By Sean Nelb
From: Grand Junction, CO
Nov 20, 2014

The horizontals in the roof are very shallow. The lobes on a Camalot stick out too far past the head when they are compressed to fit. A #4 Friend supposedly doesn't have this problem. I never tried the Friend since I don't own one, and was never able to get any nuts in anywhere. Double up on the cams at the end of the left-ward traverse and then gun it to the anchor above the pointy roof. You'll need a good belayer: if you blow it and there's too much slack out you could hit the slab below the tiers.
By GabrielKoybz
Apr 19, 2016

#4 Camalot fits perfectly to protect the final moves.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!