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Tieranny Roofs
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Tieranny 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Glenn Ritter
Page Views: 3,400
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006

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Tieranny roofs

Description 

The first route done on the wall and still a classic. Tieranny is heavily chalked and begins just left of center on the wall. It follows a line of fixed draws out the roof that is just left of a bolted seam (The Probe) that also extends out the roof. Ends at chains hanging down from a break below the lip.

Climb the difficult face up to a good stance at rings below the roof. This is a sandbag at 5.10 and a difficult warmup. Continue out the roof on the fixed draws to a definite crux involving a left foot heel hook and a couple hard pulls on smaller holds to yet another jug.


Protection 

A dozen draws or so. PG13 rated without a stick clip. It would be a real service to bring a half dozen 18" lengths of chain to replace the totally manky fixed draws under the roof. The quicklinks and biners are already there -- all you'd need would be pliers!



Photos of Tieranny Slideshow Add Photo
As of 10/24/11 there are lots of crappy fixed draws at the Tieranny roofs.  We cleaned this off Jungle Jane and replaced the draws.  BEWARE!
As of 10/24/11 there are lots of crappy fixed draw...
This would cut a rope for sure.  Cleaned off Jungle Jane.
This would cut a rope for sure. Cleaned off Jungl...
Comments on Tieranny Add Comment
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By Rob Dillon
Dec 31, 2006

Rumor has it that this has been climbed on gear, by Pascal Robert about 10 years ago?

By 426
Feb 28, 2007

Could well be, RD. Seems like most of Obed could be tradded for the motivated.


As of last fall the mank was replaced and this was sporting some red runners and newer biners.

Good description, the "10" slab is very technical...


Ultra....classic...

By chummer
Jan 13, 2008

Pascal and Kris Klein showed up and climbed it on natural gear. I think just to stick it to Glenn and the crew. The pro would clearly be solid. I don't remember the year. Chris Chestnut considered soloing it at one time many years ago as did KB. I didn't ever hear of them pulling it off though.

I climbed the route about 100 times and considered trying to solo it, got a wild hair one day and climbed up to the roofs, chickened out and climbed down. Thank god I did. I think I would have just freaked out at the crux. Oh how I miss Obed. Great memories there.

Matt Nasty and crew used take like 60 footers off the chains. They'd climbed over the lip pull up a bunch of slack and whip to about 30 feet off the ground. The good ol' days.

By Glenn Ritter
From: Sandy, UT
Sep 20, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

When I die you can cremate me, stick me in my old REI chalkbag, and dust me onto those glorious roof holds of Tieranny. I'll never be so lucky again as to get the FA on such an amazing piece of rock.

P.S. -
If there is any left over dust the rest of me on Whatsherface!

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Mar 13, 2012

Amazing route. Every move on this thing is classic.

By Tommy Sutter
Jul 30, 2013

The gate on the third permadraw has lost it "spring-loadedness". Be careful. 7/30/13.