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7. The Slabs
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Slabs Direct 
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South Buttress of Wankers Wall 
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Stop if you Dare 
Tidal Wave 
Waiting for Comeau 
Wave Bye Bye 
Wave Length 
Wedge 

Tidal Wave 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b R

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 270', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
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Submitted By: Gabe13 on Sep 7, 2010
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Description 

Along with the Booklet, Ninth Wave and Black Jade, here's another cool, hard-ish slab route that is virtually guaranteed to be free, any Saturday of the summer.

Simulclimb to the base of the standard arch. Climb easily up the arch until it is possible to step up and left onto the face (5.8). Move up to a bolt then make a long runout to an overlap. Protect, balance right, grab a flake and you're at the anchors.

Pitch two follows the gray/green streak up to a bolt in a slight groove (10b) before gaining an easy layback flake. Watch out when clipping bolt 1 from a very balancy stance. After another undercling flake and a bolt, more sustained slabbing can be protected by traversing left into Sliding Board every so often.


Location 

Starts at the base of the Standard Route arch.


Protection 

Protects well with a normal rack. Some mandatory slab runouts and a dicy clip on p. 2.



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