|Chockstone Corridor - South Summit
This is a nice long obvious arete which is mostly 5.6 or easier. The crux is where you least expect it.
Watch out for the huge loose flake on top of the route, past the steep climbing!
Look for the Chockstone Corridor. Immediately to the left of the corridor is a long beautiful low angle arete. Gain the arete by climbing up a chimney to the left of the arete.
One fixed pin near crux. Other than that, bring small nuts and cams to place in horizontals along the way. The largest piece I used was a BD #.75 at the top for an anchor. Up to #2 could have been nice for a better anchor. The route tops out at a large ledge. You may optionally scramble on top of a large boulder by continuing climbing to use a bolted anchor for a route in the Chockstone Corridor. Not sure if a single rope length would be long enough to do that with a belay from the bottom and there might be a lot of rope drag. If you would like to use the bolted anchor to rappel into the Chockstone Corridor, I recommend doing a second pitch from the large ledge, or soloing to the anchor.
The route does feature a 50 foot runout (last 50 feet) through the steepest climbing on the route, however, the crystals are large and tasty, and the climbing feels about 5.5 to 5.6. Be careful though, as this is a new route and holds may break! The last 50 feet makes the route.
|Comments on Ticket to Taster Town