Eds. The original poster apparently has deleted info, so the area has been reassigned & useful comment information is used here:
FAs were by A. Howard. The 160 foot climb on the long vertical seam on the right is called PTSD. The overbolting was due to some scary lead bolting. The plan is to sort the bolts out a bit at some point. I think that this line is at least 10a, if one stays out of the manky crack system to the right of the face. If you use the chaucy cracks and fins on the right, it is much easier, but you will pull boulders down on to your belayer. The next climb to the left which is rated above at 5.5 is probably 5.8 with a significant crux getting out of the offwidth seam and on to the face, and a face crux just below the anchors. There are 5 or 6 bolts on the face above. A #3 Camalot will fit near the start of the offwidth. A couple of smaller cams are needed before the offwidth. I would not recommend this for the budding 5.5 leader. It is called Barock. The next bolted line to the left is called Nervous Tic. It is 5.9. On the ledge that Barock and Nervous Tic are on, there are a number of good lines that can be toproped from trees slung with chains.
This small crag can be a pleasant escape into the sun during cooler months of the year. The approach is steep with loose rock. This may be too steep for dogs or small kids. It probably goes at 3rd class. There are a number of prickly plants along the way that seem to leave a few burrs under the skin. Work gloves or a knife can be useful to dig them out before you have to crimp on them. The rock here can require some cleaning and will on occasion crumble under you. Still, for the right types, climbing here will bring a smile to your face.
The best approach is from the wide pullout just west of Mary's Bust. Blast straight up the hill. The approach is rough, but short. Probably 10 aerobic minutes.
Per Mark Purdy, et al:
A. Ixodes, 10+, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Just One Tick Away, 9, 1p, 95', TR or R/X.
C. Tic, Tac, Toe, 8 PG-13, 1p, 100', gear.
D. Barock, 8+, 3p, bolts +/- gear.
E. Nervous Tic, 9+, 1-2p, 160', bolts.
F1. RFD, PG-13, 100', bolts and gear.
F2. Arachnophobia, 5, 1p, 105', bolts.
G. Tick Fever, 9, 1p, 90', bolts.
H. Not My Tick to Bear, 8, 1p, 60', gear.
I. PTSD, 10, 1-2p, 160', bolts.
J. Green Flash, 9, 1p, 80', bolts & gear.
10 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
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BETA PHOTO: PTSD from the top of the ascent gully.
BETA PHOTO: Moonlight Rock, looking right from the top of the ...
BETA PHOTO: The approach starts a bit to the right, heads up t...
BETA PHOTO: A topo drawn upon Mark Purdy's photo,...
|By allen simons|
Nov 3, 2008
Probably not a good idea to post a rating on something that has not been climbed. People who rely on a rating to help them choose a climb could get themselves in to a fix relying on a rating that has no justification other than "looks 5.5". I know the climb you are referring to and it has almost certainly been done in the past due to its obvious feature, the crack.
|By allen simons|
Nov 7, 2008
Lew, thanks for the new info and clarifying the ratings. Gives people better information when choosing a climb. We need to get out and climb some. Allen
Nov 10, 2008
Slogged up to PTSD yesterday, and followed it (P1) in hiking shoes. In the old days, any route that you had to purposely avoid the better holds on (a cleaned crack, or flakes a foot or two away from bolts, for example) in order to get the "better" climbing and harder grade was considered contrived and silly. If PTSD is indicative of the newer routes in the Big T corridor, I think I'll stick to the old favorites up at Combat. You guys with the bolts and drills should check out TenSleep, in Wyoming- there are 1000s of 5-star limestone routes waiting for people with your motivation. Happy climbing! -an old fart.
|By bert honea|
Nov 10, 2008
Got up to PTSD and Nervous Tick on Sat. Was a bit cold and fingers a tad stiff. This is what we concluded.
Nervous Tick - still a bit friable. going straight up the line, avoiding the L dihedral at the start and going R past the 5th bolt seemed consistent with 10a in the BTC. Will go back when warmer and re-do but think 8+ a bit soft.
PTSD - hard to avoid using the stuff on the R so can,t accurately rate. done " naturally " - ie following the line and using the corner I'd say .9 though the less one used the corner the harder it would get. Didn't do the second pitch so can't comment.
Of interest is the dark green face around to the R of PTSD. If solid, would be worth trying.
I think the BTC has spots of decent climbing and good rock - try Stone Point. The BTC may not be classic but it's convenient for us locals and something different than the Monastery and Combat. Thanks to those who take the time to explore. Keep it up.
|By will sleeman|
May 10, 2009
Did these climbs recently. PTSD is a really fine climb. In a sense it is contrived; the climb as I see it is the 10 foot wide 160 foot tall band of vertical perfect rock. We stayed on this (with falls). The contrived part is that at any point you can bail to your right into manky mail-slotted plates. The problem with bailing right is that the plates all seem to be loose, and your belayer is trapped below you in a little alcove. If pumped, it is safer to hang from an anchor than to go right. The upper pitch is easier but still interesting. It looks like the better line for pitch 2 would have been straight up from the rap anchor. The climbs on the other slab to the west are more moderate. Wished we had a couple of smallish cams for the one with the diagonal slot--I was heel-toeing in the wide slot 25 feet off the deck to get to the first bolt.
|By Mark Purdy|
Sep 5, 2010
I really enjoy this area! Based on an email exchange with Ken, I propose the following L to R route order:
A. Unknown, 5.10+
C. Nervous Tic, 5.9
D. Arachnophobia, 5.6
E. Tick Fever, 5.9
F. PTSD, 5.10
G. Green Flash, 5.9
Please feel free to add any corrections....
|By Eric Winne|
Jan 18, 2011
I found a rake/scruber on the piney ledge. Describe it to me impecably, and I can get it back to you.