Tibia Crack 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | First Lead: Pete Cleveland, 1967 |
| Submitted By: | Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 12, 2002 |
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Carey Kireyev at the crux of Tibia Crack. Photogra...
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Description Tibia Crack is to the left of Cul-De-Sac (the inside corner below the coffee table-sized roof). Start out by climbing up the very shallow inside corner past some clumps of long grass. Once you get to the crack, use nice jams and some rightward laybacking to get up to a hanging v-shaped chimney (crux). Struggle for a while figuring out how to get through this akward chimney. Pass through the chimney and cruise to the top.
Protection Standard Rack, some runners to prevent rope drag.
BETA PHOTO: Cul-De-Sac (115), Fibula Cracks (116), and Tibia C...
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Carey Kireyev exiting the chimney (crux) of Tibia ...
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Gina at the clumps of grass as the crack begins.
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Kelly and a good view of most of the route.
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 6, 2002
| first lead : Peter Cleveland,1967 |
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Aug 25, 2004
| Sweet pictures Mike! Thanks for contributing. |
By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.8+
| An honest 5.8+
Could climb like 5.9 on first lead. |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.8
| I climbed this last week but I climbed it with a slight variation. At the chimney I went right around the roof and basically mantled over the roof and continued straight up. I can't compare the original route to this, as I didn't do it, but I'd have to say going right at the chimney is comparable to the original route. Thoughts? |
By Trad Nanny
Jun 3, 2010
rating: 5.8+ PG13
| "PG-13" rated unless I missed a good placement higher up in the chimney. |
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 4, 2010
| There is one decent piece of gear in the chimney (see the photos of Carey leading it), but its pretty specific: a 1 or 1.5 inch cam or tricam. |
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