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Verticulture 

Tibia Crack 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland, 1967
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 12, 2002
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Carey Kireyev at the crux of Tibia Crack. Photogra...

Description 

Tibia Crack is to the left of Cul-De-Sac (the inside corner below the coffee table-sized roof). Start out by climbing up the very shallow inside corner past some clumps of long grass. Once you get to the crack, use nice jams and some rightward laybacking to get up to a hanging v-shaped chimney (crux). Struggle for a while figuring out how to get through this akward chimney. Pass through the chimney and cruise to the top.


Protection 

Standard Rack, some runners to prevent rope drag.



Photos of Tibia Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Carey Kireyev exiting the chimney (crux) of Tibia Crack. Photographer Mike Lopera
Carey Kireyev exiting the chimney (crux) of Tibia ...
Cul-De-Sac (115), Fibula Cracks (116), and Tibia Crack (117).
BETA PHOTO: Cul-De-Sac (115), Fibula Cracks (116), and Tibia C...
Gina at the clumps of grass as the crack begins.
Gina at the clumps of grass as the crack begins.
Kelly and a good view of most of the route.
Kelly and a good view of most of the route.
Comments on Tibia Crack Add Comment
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 6, 2002

first lead : Peter Cleveland,1967

By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Aug 25, 2004

Sweet pictures Mike! Thanks for contributing.

By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

An honest 5.8+
Could climb like 5.9 on first lead.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Nov 18, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I climbed this last week but I climbed it with a slight variation. At the chimney I went right around the roof and basically mantled over the roof and continued straight up. I can't compare the original route to this, as I didn't do it, but I'd have to say going right at the chimney is comparable to the original route. Thoughts?

By Tradoholic
Jun 3, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

"PG-13" rated unless I missed a good placement higher up in the chimney.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Jun 4, 2010

There is one decent piece of gear in the chimney (see the photos of Carey leading it), but its pretty specific: a 1 or 1.5 inch cam or tricam.