Beautiful sea cliffs 90km north of Aukland. A mix of sport and traditional climbing on generally solid rock. Not a world class crag, but great for a casual day of climbing. Climbale all year round, generally not crowded and idillic setting. Bolting can be a bit sparse on some routes, and natural pro can be sketcy at times. Take note of the tide, as a few of the climbs are best climbed at low tide. About 60ish routes.
From Auckland take State Highway one to Warkworth, then turn off to Leigh and Matakana, following the road past Big Omaha and then turn off at the signpost towards Ti Point. Park at Ti Point warf and walk for about 30 minutes along the coast. When you reach a sign that reads "congratulations, you have reached the end". From here there are 2 ways to reach the preamble. 1.go up a small hill, cross a wooden fence and head down a steep hill with fixed rope, which leads you to the preamble area. 2. Head around the coast over large rocks. Alternatively you can access the other end of the crag (Whiskey delta area). From the end of the track head up the small hill, head left following the wooden fence(away from the coast) for 100ish m until you reach a stile. Cross the stile and head down the hill. This takes you to the whiskey delta area.
14 Total Routes
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