Thus Us 5.9-
| 867 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter, Pebby Johns, June 2006 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Any |
| Submitted By: | Tony B on Jun 8, 2006 |
| |
Ron Olsen contemplating the wide crack section on ...
Add Photo  Printer View
Description There was not a particular crux, unless it was the more physical moves off of solid hand-jams. Good crack technique helps, I suppose.
This climb is fairly long for Avalon and has pretty good moves. I'll give it 2 stars now, but I bet it will clean up to get 3.
This route required very extensive cleaning, done By Richard, Pebby, and Bruno. Due to the extensive cleaning that was done, little rubble remains, but there is plenty of dirt on the route that has yet to settle- if you do it soon, assist by taking a brush and cleaning on your way back down.
Location This route is on the left face of the third tier (NE aspect) of the cliff, practically reaching Wizard Rock. It is just right of The Art Of War.
To approach it, hike past the Wall of The Goddess and continue around the corner to the east, passing Charon's Boat/Merlin's Enigma. Go along the cliff, heading to Wizard Rock, for another 100 Meters. The trail becomes soft and steep near this climb. Look up the rock to see a primarily left-facing and left-leaning hand-to-fist crack on the upper half. There is a large tree above the route with a sling anchor.
Protection A standard trad rack with extra pieces in the 3-4" range. The anchor up top is presently a single sling with 2 biners on the tree. In time this will need to be beefed up. I'd add a second sling and a rapid link in favor of the biners, but I was up there without any before I knew what was needed.
Richard Rossiter on the FA of THUS US.
|
BETA PHOTO: New routes on the far left side of Crack Land, par...
|
BETA PHOTO: This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...
| | | |
By Richard Rossiter
Jun 12, 2006
| THUS US is a good crack climb a few feet right of the obvious chimney THE ENEMY WITHIN. This route required extensive cleaning and has no bolts at all. Begin from the obvious slot at the bottom of ENEMY. Step right after a few feet and keep going straight up. Gear requirements: 0.5 inches to 4 inches. Aliens and Camalots. No other nuts are needed. Hands, fists and arm bars. Lower off 75 feet from a tree at the top. |
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 16, 2006
rating: 5.9
| A good crack climb. I used four big cams (1 #3, 1 #3.5, and 2 #4 Camalots) and two #2 Camalots, and was glad to have them; bolder leaders can get by with less.
My partner added a second sling and rap rings to the anchor at the tree atop the climb. There is also a new 2-bolt anchor not far up and right of the tree. |
By Eric Goltz
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2007
| Damn vandals. Bring slings and rap rings/quick links if you go up there. Unless you like that nice piny scent on your rope. |
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 8, 2007
rating: 5.9
| There was a 2-bolt rap anchor just up and right of the tree; see Photo. Hope it's still there. |
By Richard Rossiter
Jul 16, 2007
| FYI. There is a new 2-ring-bolt anchor at the top left of the ENEMY WITHIN as of 2 July 2007. This anchor has a very good stance and serves the finish to THUS US as well. |
By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.9
| Good climb, though I wish I'd have had more big gear. Did it with a #3 and a #4, could have used at least 1 more of either or both to really feel comfortable. |
|
RSS Feed
2 more...
Slideshow
