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A short, balancy, vertical-to-slightly-overhanging route on solid, black-streaked quartzite.
Start on the upper of two ledges and climb to the first bolt over easier terrain (but donít fall).
Using primarily crimps and small edges for feet ease your way up the route. There is one bucket on the route in the midst of a bulge. You wonít want to leave it, but donít dawdle because the most desperate bit is getting up past the last bolt.
The left of the two bolted routes in the black streaks midway up the gully on the right side.
5 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Back in Black
, to the right).
By Tristan Higbee
Aug 25, 2009
OK route. I thought the .11b up the gully a bit was better. This one felt really greasy (maybe it was the humidity today?) and the climbing is pretty boring: really small crimps the whole way up with a jug thrown in for good measure. Still, it's worth doing.
By Canyon Copa
May 29, 2012
Clipping the third bolt felt like the crux to me. The rock was pretty crumbly with a couple holds breaking off but could clean up nicely with more traffic. Great ledge to belay from and approach isn't bad if you stick to the right side of the gully going up.