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Easter Rock
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Thunderdome 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare, of course
Page Views: 4,500
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Jan 1, 2001

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Mike showing us the alternative, boulderer's crux ...
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thunderdome was the first route done on the North Face of Easter Rock, years before this wall was turned into the excellent sport climbing arena it is today. If you happen to have a rack of gear in your pack, and you're not too pumped from all the excellent pulling down, this climb will provide some excellent entertainment. Follow the obvious finger crack right of Eleanor (I believe). For some reason the gear is a little stubborn to place, which helps guarantee an excellent pump. This is one of the best hard finger cracks in Boulder Canyon, right up there with Mile High Comic Crack, Tourist Extravagance, Arm's Bazaar, etc.


Protection 

Wireds to a 3" cam. I know, I know, you only brought QDs to Easter Rock....



Photos of Thunderdome Slideshow Add Photo
Kurt finishing the crux on his flash of Thunderdome. He curb-stomped it.
Kurt finishing the crux on his flash of Thunderdom...
Kurt working through the crux.
Kurt working through the crux.
Kurt flashing this awesome route!
Kurt flashing this awesome route!
Kurt putting his long reach to full advantage on his flash of Thunderdome.
Kurt putting his long reach to full advantage on h...
The whole enchilada.
BETA PHOTO: The whole enchilada.
Comments on Thunderdome Add Comment
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By Mark Bockmann
Sep 25, 2001

Highly recommended if you're looking for a well-protected 12a trad route. I stuck three bomber Aliens in the roof (yeah, I'm a wuss) and finally went for it after hanging out for a while in the awkward "rest" below the crux.

By Dougald MacDonald
Jul 16, 2002

I don't think the block above the roof is much to worry about -- I knocked on it hard (and pulled on it hard), and it seems really wedged in. Now watch me get sued!!

Great climb: pumpier than it looks up to the roof, cool moves over the roof (easier if you're not short), another very hard move, then great 5.10 to the top. Now for the redpoint.....

By jonah
Jun 18, 2003

Super fun route, but I keep getting spit out of the jams through the roof. Anyone got any good beta? It's rattly fingers there and feels burly for 12a....

By Steve Annecone
From: boulder
Sep 25, 2003

You asked for beta so here's what I did: at the roof, there's a decent thin left hand jam, thumbs up, which allows you to move way out right to stick a good right hand side pull thats well-chalked. I toe-hooked my left foot in the crack to help out on balance while reaching for that right hand, that move is fun, wild, and probably 11+. Next, get the right foot around the corner to the right on a decent hold, then left foot onto a higher sloper horizontall just under the roof, and set up for a BIG reach to a jug, the crux move. I had to dyno to get it, but it's quite good. From there, make sure NOT to put a cam in the hand jam in front of you (as I've mistakenly done) or it will be very hard to climb past it without the jam. Use a nut or go a little higher before pro'ing. Excellent 5.10 or easy 5.11 climbing from there to the top.

By Chris Archer
May 30, 2004
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Fabulous route. One of the best trad climbs of its grade in the Boulder area. Powerful crux. I thought Chris Peisker led this on the FA.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Oct 2, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Interesting to see the upgrading for this. I did this again today for the second time. The first was about five years ago. I haven't placed much gear recently and would say that if you know what you're doing placing pro, this shouldn't be too epic. It took a long time to figure what gear should go where, like placing a #1.5 Friend in the key jam at the crux and then having to take it out and leave room for my hand. Fortunately the crux is brief and the rest of the climb is littered with jugs. On the other hand, I did Nevermore, Flying Beast and Catwoman on the same visit and they felt much easier overall.

By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Given how some of the sport routes here gets more than 3 star average, I'm hesitant to give this 3 stars, but I think that's all it deserves. It does not have a crack crux or any sustained hard crack section.

I hung & fell at the crux (I was already pumped from a couple sport routes) before figuring out it was a bouldering problem, not a finger crack crux. Still, this feels at most 11+ for somebody with strong arms. At any rate, the protection is pretty straightforward and falls from the crux or above are clean.

By Will Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Amazing route. Thunderdome is pretty moderate before and after the crux, but the crux moves felt like solid 12a. My beta seemed different from everyone else's here so the best advice I have is just to get out there and figure it out for yourself. You'll likely have it to your lonesome even on sunny summer weekends. Isn't it great bringing trad gear to a sport crag.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 10, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Really good crack route, particularly for Boulder Canyon. I thought it was right up there with Country Club, etc. in terms of quality. Good rock, good protection, steep, cool temps on a summer evening. What more could you ask for?

In terms of difficulty, I thought 12a seemed pretty accurate. It was similar to other 12a's I have been on at Vedauwoo, Platte, BC, etc. That being said, I am generally better at enduro routes than bouldery power routes, such as this one. Gear is straightforward and not strenuous or pumpy, so it basically boils down to hammering through 3 or 4 tough moves. Tough one to onsight, as there is almost too much stuff to work with.