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West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Moveable Flake T 
Allosaur T 
Auntie Perspirant T 
Blind Mouse T 
Blues Power T 
Clean Freak T 
Crow's Landing T 
Earnest Stemmingway T 
Ernest Extended Way T 
Exterminator, The T 
Farmer's Wife, The T 
First Unknown T 
Flyback T 
Foaming Cleanser T 
Initial Hangover T 
Initial Route T 
Jam Con T 
Kickin' Chicken T,S 
Leg of Ilg T 
Mineral Maze S 
Morning Thunder T 
Odarodle T 
Office Girls Walk The Plank T 
Party Pooper T 
Piece Easy T 
Pork Chop T 
Quo Vadis T 
Ranger Danger T 
Roadside Attraction T,S 
Runsholl Scrunch T 
Shot and Chaser T 
Sleepytime T 
Something Blue T 
Stepping Stones T 
Super Scooper T 
Territorial Integrity T,TR 
Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 
Thunderworld T 
Up the Downclimb T 
Verschneidung T 
Water Line T,S 
Wild Turkey S 
Wingshot T 
Wishbone T,S 

Thunderbolts From Hell 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: G. Ringsby, S. Dieckhoff
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 605
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2003

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Tony Bubb geting started on the thin and gymanstic...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is a good climb, but heady. It lies on the 'Morning Thunder' wall, and, in fact, climbs the first few feet of the namesake climb before breaking left to a bolted arete. Endurance crimping and stable footwork are the keys to making this climb go.

Start up Morning Thunder and place a few good stoppers with a long sling (a litte strenuous), climb left to reach the arete and soon thereafter clip a bolt. Continue past a few more bolts and some tough moves on some flexi-flakes to reach the top of the arete. Keep moving, because endurance is a factor and the holds are small. Top out and build a belay.

This is a pretty stout route- and a few of the little flakes you will yard on are flexing and dubous at best. Be mindful that a fall from the wrong place will result in smashing your face into the rock. So think in terms of doing solid 5.12 while a little pumped and also with a bad fall pending. I talked with Steve about the bolt placements at some length, during which discussion he mentioned that G.R. broke some teeth out on a failed lead attempt, and also conceeded that the 12a grade might be a sandbag, but also stated that was GR's rating, not his. I'm not strong enough at that level to make clear distinctions, but it was quite hard and certainly in the 5.12 range.

Protection 

A few small nuts for the opening moves of Morning Thunder, then widely spaced bolts for the steep arete to the left.


Photos of Thunderbolts From Hell Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb into the thick of it, or perhaps getting into the thin of it on 'Thunderbolts From Heck (5.12)' on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo from Joseffa Meir, 2003.
Tony Bubb into the thick of it, or perhaps getting...

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