Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Moveable Flake 
Auntie Perspirant 
Blind Mouse 
Blues Power 
Clean Freak 
Crow's Landing 
Earnest Stemmingway 
Ernest Extended Way 
Exterminator, The 
Farmer's Wife, The 
First Unknown 
Foaming Cleanser 
Initial Hangover 
Initial Route 
Jam Con 
Kickin' Chicken 
Leg of Ilg 
Mineral Maze 
Morning Thunder 
Office Girls Walk The Plank 
Party Pooper 
Pork Chop 
Quo Vadis 
Ranger Danger 
Roadside Attraction 
Runsholl Scrunch 
Shot and Chaser 
Something Blue 
Stepping Stones 
Super Scooper 
Territorial Integrity 
Thunderbolts From Hell 
Up the Downclimb 
Water Line 
Wild Turkey 

Thunderbolts From Hell 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b PG13

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: G. Ringsby, S. Dieckhoff
Fixed Hardware: 3 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 560
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 1, 2003
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Tony Bubb geting started on the thin and gymanstic...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


This route is a good climb, but heady. It lies on the 'Morning Thunder' wall, and, in fact, climbs the first few feet of the namesake climb before breaking left to a bolted arete. Endurance crimping and stable footwork are the keys to making this climb go.

Start up Morning Thunder and place a few good stoppers with a long sling (a litte strenuous), climb left to reach the arete and soon thereafter clip a bolt. Continue past a few more bolts and some tough moves on some flexi-flakes to reach the top of the arete. Keep moving, because endurance is a factor and the holds are small. Top out and build a belay.

This is a pretty stout route- and a few of the little flakes you will yard on are flexing and dubous at best. Be mindful that a fall from the wrong place will result in smashing your face into the rock. So think in terms of doing solid 5.12 while a little pumped and also with a bad fall pending. I talked with Steve about the bolt placements at some length, during which discussion he mentioned that G.R. broke some teeth out on a failed lead attempt, and also conceeded that the 12a grade might be a sandbag, but also stated that was GR's rating, not his. I'm not strong enough at that level to make clear distinctions, but it was quite hard and certainly in the 5.12 range.


A few small nuts for the opening moves of Morning Thunder, then widely spaced bolts for the steep arete to the left.

Photos of Thunderbolts From Hell Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb into the thick of it, or perhaps getting into the thin of it on 'Thunderbolts From Heck (5.12)' on Eldo's West Ridge. Photo from Joseffa Meir, 2003.
Tony Bubb into the thick of it, or perhaps getting...
Comments on Thunderbolts From Hell Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -