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Thunder & Lightning  

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 225
Submitted By: William Mondragon on Nov 4, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This starts just right of Spontaneous Combustion, and like the others on this wall, it starts out bouldery (the thunder) and eases up for a while until the technical crux up high (the lightning).

Location 

It is just right of Spontaneous Combustion.

Protection 

10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


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By b hof
From: Pueblo West, CO
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

To fill in some blanks for the route description copied almost straight out of the guidebook: Start out with thin, technical climbing to get situated under the bulge to a short, bouldery section (not as hard as the thin section). Gain easier ground with several spots to rest, and then head to a short, shallow, right-facing corner. After the corner, the real business begins. If you follow the bolt line which I believe is the intended crux, it's hard .12c climbing and involves high feet and using a smooth, crescent-shaped undercling. What it looks like people are doing is traversing way right under the bulge, reaching to a good pocket and then moving back left to clip the next bolt. If done this way, I would give the route .12b, but try not to blow the sequence because you're looking at a bad swing into the right-facing corner. After the crux, enjoy fun climbing to the anchor.