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Cactus Cliff
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Thumbs Up 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Carrie & Bob Robertson, Jason Cushner, 2000
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: Old Fart aka Dave Bohn on Jun 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

"Two Thumbs Down!" The first route right of Dihedrus. The start is face or crack depending on how you climb it to a grass and cactus covered ledge on top of a short pedestal where if you're wise you can bail on some anchors for the route just to the right (Gotta Bolt aka Got a Hanger). If not, then a viciously sharp slab leads 3 or 4 more clips to the anchors. I've done a lot of the other "sharp" routes at Shelf but this one takes the razor blade award. In truth, my partner, while not liking the route either, didn't think it was as bad as my rantings.

Protection 

7 bolts + anchors.


Photos of Thumbs Up Slideshow Add Photo
Thumbs Up follows the draws hanging on the right up to the ledge, then up and left onto the sharp slab.  The climber on the left is on Dihedrus.
BETA PHOTO: Thumbs Up follows the draws hanging on the right u...

Comments on Thumbs Up Add Comment
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By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Mar 23, 2008

Definitely not the best, or worst route at Cactus. However it serves its purpose if it gets too crowded in this area while waiting for some of the other routes. Which is the only reason I would ever suggest for anyone to get on this one. A confusing line to say the least with SUPER sharp holds near the upper slabby section. Took a while to get the feeling back into my tips.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

All the bolts on this route are drilled at a downward angle, not a single hanger was flush with the wall. The bolting also doesn't define the line very well, as you could either commit to the face or stay in the corner for a much easier version. I'm gonna go with jarthur on this one; not the best, or the worst, at Cactus Cliff.