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 ADVANCED
Star Wars Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Between a Rock and a Hard Place T 
Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market T 
Light Sabre T 
Through the Hole and Up The Wall T 
Thumbs Down Left T 
Walking on the Moon T 

Thumbs Down Left 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Konrad Hughen, Alan Bell, Vaino Kodas, 1982
Page Views: 1,010
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Aug 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Sweet hand crack!

Description 

This is the leftmost route on Star Wars rock. Start in a continuous crack up to the left side of a terrace left of Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market and Light Sabre. Move right on the terrace, then head up the hand crack in the dihedral to the summit. If you're mystified by the crux beta, just remember the route name. It might not be creative, but it is descriptive.

Protection 

Standard trad rack.


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By mungeclimber
Aug 8, 2002

Apparently, Thumbs down left is also instructions on how to climb the route, not just it's name.

-Munge
By namascar
Nov 15, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I think I have an issue with Josh's 5.9. They are stout!
By Bo Johnston
Oct 10, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I'll go as far as saying it is 9+/10a. The first 15 feet are awkward and the jamming above made me wish I taped up. Ok climb after Light Sabre.
By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Nov 13, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The first 30 feet consist of a grunty chimney/offwidth. Possible to get a #4 Camalot about halfway up, but not much else. The top half is a short but decent hand crack in a corner so tight its a bit awkward, taking as many #1 and #2 Camalots as you want. Not a destination...
By Jorge
Jan 20, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I thought it was a semi-soft 5.9, sure the bottom is kinda awkward but the top portion was great hands all the way.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Feb 18, 2007

Thumbs down just ain't the route name. OK to do if you are here and there are 40 parties of 5 on Light Sabre. The term "grainy pile" comes to mind.....
By armando fimbrez
From: rancho cucamonga
Feb 27, 2008

Good warm up climb, befroe doing Light sabre. Then Cedrix deep sea market. Did Cedrix on Tr. I will return this year 2008 to lead it. The gear looks tricky.
By dcohn
Apr 27, 2010

I am not sure why some people gave this a bomb. The bottom is a little grainy, but I thought it protected well and was a decent route.
By Ryan Bracci
From: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA
Dec 30, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The first section is kind of grovely. A #3 does fit higher up in a restriction and is what I used but if you really want to sew it up bring a #4.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Jan 1, 2014

didn't notice the thumbs down left bit. too busy enjoying the very unique cross-arms handjamming, what with there being two handcracks up that second dihedral, one up each side and at 90 degs to each other. very cool