Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Fly in the Ointment 
Acid Crack 
Acid Rock 
AHR 
Bihedral 
Bihedral Arete 
Blood Diamond 
Case of the Fags 
Crack Variation 
Dan's Line 
Daydreaming 
Diamonds and Rust 
Dihedral Variation 
Edge of Reality 
Fat Tuesday 
Flags of Our Fathers 
Flesh Eating Flies 
Group Therapy 
Heterohedral 
High Hard One 
Hold The Line 
It's Time For Change 
Just Putin Around 
Left-Handed Tool 
Loose Blocks [in the Black Band] 
Night Moves 
Oh Boy 
Pariah 
Puff Daddy 
Rhodian Shores 
Rhodian, Naturally 
Sands of Iwo Jima 
Sun Spot 
Thumb Tack 
Tool King 
Trick or Treat 
Where's Ray? 

Thumb Tack 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Larry Dalke & Cliff Jennings, 1965. FFA: Alan Bradley & Dan Hare, 1984.
Page Views: 2,287
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 5, 2004
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Tony Bubb arrives at the steep section of 'Thumb T...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is one of two routes up the striking headwall that caps the Bihedral.

This climb can be seen easily from the road on the top 1/4 of the Bihedral. It starts in a overhanging handcrack for a few meters, gains a small square pod/cave, then exits the feature on the right hand side in sustained tight finger-locks and sidepulls, going up to a tree at the summit.

P1: Approach via the climb Rhodian Shores, Crack Variation, or Bihedral Arete. After the belay common to all of those, continue, tending slightly right to go up to the bottom of said headwall. Belay down and right of the bottom of the climb (#2 Friend, #1.5 Friend, & another small-med Friend or #3 Camalot.)

P2: Head up the crack on the headwall placing a 2.5"-3" cam at the start, and possibly a medium nut overhead before pulling past some insecure moves (5.11) to get into the pod. The VERY tall might not find this as hard. A #1 cam goes in the center of the top of the pod. Place a very small cam, ballnut or small nut overhead and exit the pod on the right and continue up to a not-quite "thank god" hold. (5.11) and then place tiny cams and continue upward past a series of thin locks and sidepulls with marginal feet (crux) to reach the lower-angle finish.


Protection 

You need the appropriate rack for the approach pitches, then something for the belay (cams 1"-2"). For the route, take a 2.5"-3" cam for the start and then a double set of cams from the smallest you have to .5" plus two 1" cams and a few nuts from #3 BD-#8 BD. The tree up top has an anchor that needs to be beefed up. Please consider adding a rapid link.



Photos of Thumb Tack Slideshow Add Photo
Tony Bubb tries to figure out the crux of 'Thumb Tack (5.11+)' at the Bihedral Rock in Boulder Canyon. The steep crux is protected by a micro-cam or a small nut. Photo by Alan Doak, 2004.
Tony Bubb tries to figure out the crux of 'Thumb T...
Comments on Thumb Tack Add Comment
Show which comments
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 1, 2008

Hard tips crack route that is more overhung than it looks. Powerful moves off of and to fingerlock pods through interesting ground. Used a full rack of Aliens and C3s. Some small nuts are good too. Place small gear up hig before pulling out of the box and go for it!

Best route I've climbed in this area.

CL

By Lon Black
May 26, 2009

Of course...another line that Dan freed. This is SUCH a good line. Damn. Is it ok to say damn on here? Damn, that was awesome. If you're thinking about going for it or not, do it.