Thumb Tack  5.11d

2,104 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  Larry Dalke & Cliff Jennings, 1965. FFA: Alan Bradley & Dan Hare, 1984. Submitted By:  Tony B on Jun 5, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Tony Bubb arrives at the steep section of 'Thumb T...

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This route is one of two routes up the striking headwall that caps the Bihedral.

This climb can be seen easily from the road on the top 1/4 of the Bihedral. It starts in a overhanging handcrack for a few meters, gains a small square pod/cave, then exits the feature on the right hand side in sustained tight finger-locks and sidepulls, going up to a tree at the summit.

P1: Approach via the climb Rhodian Shores, Crack Variation, or Bihedral Arete. After the belay common to all of those, continue, tending slightly right to go up to the bottom of said headwall. Belay down and right of the bottom of the climb (#2 Friend, #1.5 Friend, & another small-med Friend or #3 Camalot.)

P2: Head up the crack on the headwall placing a 2.5"-3" cam at the start, and possibly a medium nut overhead before pulling past some insecure moves (5.11) to get into the pod. The VERY tall might not find this as hard. A #1 cam goes in the center of the top of the pod. Place a very small cam, ballnut or small nut overhead and exit the pod on the right and continue up to a not-quite "thank god" hold. (5.11) and then place tiny cams and continue upward past a series of thin locks and sidepulls with marginal feet (crux) to reach the lower-angle finish.

Protection 

You need the appropriate rack for the approach pitches, then something for the belay (cams 1"-2"). For the route, take a 2.5"-3" cam for the start and then a double set of cams from the smallest you have to .5" plus two 1" cams and a few nuts from #3 BD-#8 BD. The tree up top has an anchor that needs to be beefed up. Please consider adding a rapid link.

Photos of Thumb Tack Slideshow

Add Photo

Tony Bubb tries to figure out the crux of 'Thumb T...