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The Castle
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5.9 crack climb T 
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Great Chimney Route T 
Guillotine T 
Hardgumbi's Lament T 
Nose, The T 
Rapunzel T 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route T 
Southeast Gully T 
Throne Room T 
Uncle Wiggly T 
Wiggins Route T 
Winterlude T 
You Can't Chop This T 

Throne Room 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Peter Williams & Keith Schoepflin, c. 1984.
Season: Spring through fall
Page Views: 4,153
Submitted By: Jeremy Hakes on Jan 13, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the Parapet Tower. You can theoretically ...

Description 

Climb the right hand crack starting at the base of the Parapet, the second major inset in. This route goes to the top of the Parapet.

Location 

Per Kevin Stricker: The Throne Room is actually the left of two obvious, crack systems on the west face of the Parapet (the right one is the Dungeon).

There is a 165' rappel off the top of the Parapet.

Protection 

Trad. No known bolts/FP.


Photos of Throne Room Slideshow Add Photo
Keith Schoepflin near the end of the first pitch on the FA, 1984.
Keith Schoepflin near the end of the first pitch o...
Keith leading the second pitch on the FA, 1984.
Keith leading the second pitch on the FA, 1984.
This is the Throne Room route.  80' rappel into the gully on the left, 165' rappel towards the base.
This is the Throne Room route. 80' rappel into th...
The Castle taken from the air, ca 1983. The Parapet is casting the shadow at the center, and Castle Corner is the prominent dihedral to its left.
The Castle taken from the air, ca 1983. The Parape...
Luke heading up the stellar, and continuous, P2. Can it get any better than this?
Luke heading up the stellar, and continuous, P2. C...
Just past the 1st traverse on the start of P2. I think this would be a better choice for the P1 belay.
Just past the 1st traverse on the start of P2. I t...
Looking down from atop P1. We belayed before the traverse, but it might be better to belay just after it. Better stance, better gear, and easier climbing for transition.
Looking down from atop P1. We belayed before the t...
Looking down from atop P2. The bushes detract some from this otherwise perfect pitch.
Looking down from atop P2. The bushes detract some...

Comments on Throne Room Add Comment
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By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 13, 2008
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

The Throne Room is actually the left of two obvious, crack systems on the west face of the Parapet (the right one is the Dungeon). The route is closer to 300', it's been climbed in one monster pitch with a 70m rope and about 60 feet of simulclimbing.

Most people find the crux to be the traverse right at the top of the first pitch, although the flared, fist crack at the start of pitch 3 is no gimme. You can get down with a single 70m rope, but watch pulling down rocks in the loose gully between the Parapet and Castle. You should not climb this route during nesting season as peregrines often nest in the perfect bowl at the second pitch belay.

Also be warned that several climbers have had close calls with lightning climbing on the Parapet. Storms like to gather around the Castle, and you do not get a lot of warning when the big ones roll in.

The Throne Room is probably one of the best multi-pitch routes in the S. Platte, with beautiful views, great rock, and interesting cruxes. Well worth the grunt of an approach.
By Pete Williams
From: Dinosaur, Colorado
Apr 1, 2008

Hey, Pete G., I just came across this site by accident, and I'm new to posting here. I'm interested in posting some historical photos/topos/accounts from my journals of those great South Platte days of the late 70s and early 80s, but they'll have to follow later.

In the mean time, I want to say that to the best of my recollection (and from the faint processing dates stamped on my slides), Keith and I actually climbed The Dungeon in 1983, and then wised up enough to come back in 1984 to climb our favorite, the Throne Room. We called the spire-like point these climbs summited on "The Parapet," but it was clear at the time that we weren't the first to get to the top of it. The last pitch of "The Dungeon" was actually a free ascent of a pitch that was likely aided by Boulder climbers of the late 50s or early 60s (the two Star Drivn bolts with modified knifeblade piton hangers were our clue to this). I think the first ascent of the Parapet actually climbed awful-looking, rotten slabs around to the right of our routes.
By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
Apr 1, 2008

Hey Pete, Can't wait to see those old pics. Historical pictures and personal accounts are very much appreciated on this site. Welcome aboard!
By Olaf Mitchell
From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
Apr 1, 2008

Hay Pete,
As an old time South Platte rat myself, I look forward to your archival images and tales. Aloha. Olaf.
By Pete Williams
From: Dinosaur, Colorado
Apr 1, 2008

I just uploaded some photos of Keith Schoepflin on the FA of The Throne Room. Also a scenic of The Castle taken from the air in 1983. Keith had a friend with a plane, so one day we had him fly us all over the South Platte. Actually, our primary object was to scope out new rocks to climb in the Lost Creek area (and we certainly found a few that later provided some adventures), but along the way we had the opportunity to photograph a lot of the major domes around the Platte area.
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Be advised that, although it's an astounding position and a great climb, the final few moves of pitch 3 include an awkward mantel ("protected" by an old 1/4 bolt) onto the final summit slab. If you blow it here, it would be very bad.
By Lenny Miller
Sep 9, 2013

Stellar climbing - beautiful line and continuous, varied, and awesome position. Do it! Some thoughts to add to the above comments:

P1: In hindsight I think it would be better to belay after the traverse (see photo) - better stance, better gear, and easier climbing for the transition.

P2: Traversing about 5' above the horizontal (2nd horizontal as shown in Jeremy's photo) worked well and I was able to get a good #3 Wallnut, in a patina split on the face, for protection.

P3: The hardest moves are off the belay, but unless you bring large gear, you'll be running it out on 5.8 OW for 20ft or so. The mantel Clint referred to is also about 5.8 and is protected by an ancient, rusted, 1/4" bolt with a drilled, knifeblade hanger.

We got off easily with a single 60m rope. It required about 15ft of 4th class downclimbing after the first rap. Three raps total to the ground.

It seemed to us that both P1 and P2 were about 50m each. Linking these would be awesome, but with 60 or 70m ropes, you had better be really solid on 5.10, as you will be doing a lot of simul-climbing on 5.10 terrain.
By Andrew Krueger
Jul 29, 2014

Would it be wrong to replace the P3 bolt with a 3/8" SS (in the same hole)? Or just unnecessary? Curious as to the feelings of the pioneers and others. Thanks.