This is a variation to the route "The Threshold" that avoids the difficult and poorly-protected 5.11 start. The pro on this variation isn't that great, so it's best top-roped from the anchors on My Way
Start about 15' left of My Way
at a left-facing dihedral behind a small pine tree. Climb the corner (or come in from the left) and move up right to a stance at the top of a pillar. "The Threshold" climbs out left from here, with some poorly-protected 5.11 face moves to gain an angling hand crack. Instead, step up on the right side of the arete (same as My Way) and then traverse left onto the arete as soon as possible. Move left to a small ledge below a steep face. Climb up the face (5.9 or 9+, poor pro). Move left and continue up the face and intermittent cracks about 10' left of My Way
. At the top, angle right to the anchor on My Way
. Rappel or lower 85' back down.
On the right side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 15' left of My Way
, at a left-facing dihedral behind a small pine tree. See the Boulder Slips route overview photo.
Not that great. I haven't led this variation, and wouldn't recommend doing so unless you're solid on runout 5.9. Best to top-rope from the anchor on My Way
BETA PHOTO: Threshold Variation. Climb to the top of the pill...