Threshold Variation  5.9+ R

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85 feet Consensus:  5.9+ [details] FA:  Randy Leavitt and Dan Hare, 1981 Submitted By:  Ron Olsen on Oct 26, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Threshold Variation. Climb to the top of the pill...

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Poison Ivy Alert MORE INFO >>> From mid-May through October, the hillside below the left side of Boulder Slips is covered in poison ivy. It is difficult to avoid no matter how you approach the climbs. Better to climb somewhere else during this time. Routes on the center and right side of Boulder Slips are not affected. From November to early May, the poison ivy is dormant, but watch out for the plants with little light-green berries -- these are poison ivy bushes. Avoid them and you should be OK to climb on the left side of Boulder Slips at those times. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a variation to the route "The Threshold" that avoids the difficult and poorly-protected 5.11 start. The pro on this variation isn't that great, so it's best top-roped from the anchors on My Way.

Start about 15' left of My Way/Boulder Slips at a left-facing dihedral behind a small pine tree. Climb the corner (or come in from the left) and move up right to a stance at the top of a pillar. "The Threshold" climbs out left from here, with some poorly-protected 5.11 face moves to gain an angling hand crack. Instead, step up on the right side of the arete (same as My Way) and then traverse left onto the arete as soon as possible. Move left to a small ledge below a steep face. Climb up the face (5.9 or 9+, poor pro). Move left and continue up the face and intermittent cracks about 10' left of My Way. At the top, angle right to the anchor on My Way. Rappel or lower 85' back down.

Location 

On the right side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 15' left of My Way, at a left-facing dihedral behind a small pine tree. See the Boulder Slips route overview photo.

Protection 

Not that great. I haven't led this variation, and wouldn't recommend doing so unless you're solid on runout 5.9. Best to top-rope from the anchor on My Way.

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BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips Route Overview 1. Edges and Ledges,...