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Boulder Slips
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Boulder Slips T,TR 
Brand New Bosch S 
Colorado Senior Open T,S 
Edges and Ledges S 
Family Guy T,S 
La Lune S 
Minutia T 
Minutia Arete TR 
My Way T,S 
Party Time! T,S 
Pumpkin Corner T 
Ride, The T,S 
Same As It Ever Was T,S 
Sunlight Arete S 
Threshold Variation T,TR 
Threshold, The T 
Throttle, The T,TR 
Useless One T,TR 
Where's Bob? T,S 

Threshold Variation 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Randy Leavitt and Dan Hare, 1981
Page Views: 327
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Threshold Variation. Climb to the top of the pill...

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  • Description 

    This is a variation to the route "The Threshold" that avoids the difficult and poorly-protected 5.11 start. The pro on this variation isn't that great, so it's best top-roped from the anchors on My Way.

    Start about 15' left of My Way/Boulder Slips at a left-facing dihedral behind a small pine tree. Climb the corner (or come in from the left) and move up right to a stance at the top of a pillar. "The Threshold" climbs out left from here, with some poorly-protected 5.11 face moves to gain an angling hand crack. Instead, step up on the right side of the arete (same as My Way) and then traverse left onto the arete as soon as possible. Move left to a small ledge below a steep face. Climb up the face (5.9 or 9+, poor pro). Move left and continue up the face and intermittent cracks about 10' left of My Way. At the top, angle right to the anchor on My Way. Rappel or lower 85' back down.

    Location 

    On the right side of the Boulder Slips crag, about 15' left of My Way, at a left-facing dihedral behind a small pine tree. See the Boulder Slips route overview photo.

    Protection 

    Not that great. I haven't led this variation, and wouldn't recommend doing so unless you're solid on runout 5.9. Best to top-rope from the anchor on My Way.


    Photos of Threshold Variation Slideshow Add Photo
    Boulder Slips Route Overview <br /> <br />1. Edges and Ledges, 8, 8 bolts <br />2. Brand New Bosch, 9, 6 bolts <br />3. Party Time!, 9, 5 bolts & gear to 3.5" <br />4. Minutia, 8, gear to 3" <br />5. Minutia Arete, 9+, TR <br />6. Pumpkin Corner, 9, gear to 2" <br />7. La Lune, 12d, 5 bolts <br />8. Sunlight Arete, 10b, 5 bolts <br />9. The Throttle, 11 R, TR <br />10. Threshold Variation, 9+ R, TR <br />11. My Way, 9, 4 bolts & gear to 2" <br />12. Boulder Slips, 9 R, gear to 2" <br />13. Where's Bob?, 10, 5 bolts & 2 green Camalots <br />14. The Ride, 10b, 5 bolts & gear to 2"
    BETA PHOTO: Boulder Slips Route Overview 1. Edges and Ledges,...

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