Start in the nice, left-facing dihedral atop a clean gently sloping granite slab. Climb the dihedral using finger/layback moves and pull up onto the obvious ledge to the right. Move right along the ledge, and then climb a short offwidth through hands up to the anchors (two bolts).
This route was surprisingly nice. Could make a nice warmup before doing something longer on the wall.
This is located about 40 feet right of Bandito in a short but beautiful-looking, left-facing dihedral. The anchors are visible from below.
Standard trad rack: small pieces to large hand pieces. A #4 Camalot or equivalent may be useful.
Three's Company indeed, OW crux (for me) felt like Jack Tripper trying to cop a feel off of Chrissy... damn, almost got it!
That finger start feels as aesthetic as it looks, really fun climb.
By Nate Kirchhofer From: Santa Barbara, CA Jun 4, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
I believe that the medium-sized rock at the base of the widest part of the offwidth in the photo has fallen, making the first moves in the crack a little more reachy. A #3 or #4 Camalot will be useful.
Agreed that rock is gone, and I am not tall enough to make the reach to the jam, so it requires some a little chimney technique to get into the wide part.
By Cragophilia May 16, 2011 rating: 5.8+5b16VI-15HVS 4c
I'm not sure which rock you guys are talking about. I was there this weekend, and all the rocks in this photo seem to still be there. I wasn't looking for that while I was there, but the rocks in my photos seem to match this one perfectly.