Start in the nice, left-facing dihedral atop a clean gently sloping granite slab. Climb the dihedral using finger/layback moves and pull up onto the obvious ledge to the right. Move right along the ledge, and then climb a short offwidth through hands up to the anchors (two bolts).
This route was surprisingly nice. Could make a nice warmup before doing something longer on the wall.
This is located about 40 feet right of Bandito in a short but beautiful-looking, left-facing dihedral. The anchors are visible from below.
Standard trad rack: small pieces to large hand pieces. A #4 Camalot or equivalent may be useful.
Passing the OW at Three's Company on top rope. All...
|By Crisco Jackass|
From: Grand Junction, CO
Apr 22, 2009
Three's Company indeed, OW crux (for me) felt like Jack Tripper trying to cop a feel off of Chrissy... damn, almost got it!
That finger start feels as aesthetic as it looks, really fun climb.
|By Nate Kirchhofer|
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 4, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I believe that the medium-sized rock at the base of the widest part of the offwidth in the photo has fallen, making the first moves in the crack a little more reachy. A #3 or #4 Camalot will be useful.
From: Glenwood Springs CO
Apr 26, 2011
Agreed that rock is gone, and I am not tall enough to make the reach to the jam, so it requires some a little chimney technique to get into the wide part.
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
I'm not sure which rock you guys are talking about. I was there this weekend, and all the rocks in this photo seem to still be there. I wasn't looking for that while I was there, but the rocks in my photos seem to match this one perfectly.
|By Mike Wallace|
From: Summit County, CO
Jun 2, 2011
Fun route. Skipped the #4 Camalot (take it anyway) and placed a #12 stopper in the pinch at the top of the OW. Nice slabbing (feet) to the right. Great warm-up.