A right angling flake (about 20ft up) between Loose Lips and Retards Recess. A left facing crack leads to a small roof leading to a right angling flake (classic and good fun) leading to the start of the crux with flared hand jams and holds on the right, leading to only flared jams on a slightly overhanging wall
between loose lips and retards recess
can be done easily with cams only (green aliens to yellow camalots
|By chuck claude|
From: Flagstaff, Az
Apr 27, 2007
One of my favorite leads in the Forks. The lieback flake is good fun and the upper baby butt crack is interesting.
gear beta: a red camalot placed at the base of the baby butt crack (after the lieback flake) will make you feel like you can wing anywhere on the rest of the route and you'd be safe.
|By Greg DeMatteo|
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Sep 21, 2008
The beginning of that flared crack is sooooo harrrrd.
|By Paul Davidson|
Nov 11, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Actual name was Tres Guajolotes Muerto because the first time I tried this there were three dead turkey chicks near the base. Nobody else liked that name hence, 3 Turkeys.
Couldn't commit to the crux moves the first day I tried it.
The next time I got on it, as I was moving into the crux, it started to rain. Lowered down and waited for it to dry, or so I thought.
Went back up, pulled through the crux and into the thin hands to find it was still oozing. Scared me silly but I didn't want to repeat the moves so I sucked it up.
This was pre TCU days so it was led on wires until it became #1 Friend size. Wet rock and strenuous gear placements had me thinking it was probably 12a. I believe my "red camalot" was a wired #2 hex backed up with some other wire. I didn't really feel like I could wing on it anywhere and be safe. But I just like to whine.
The second was Bobbi Bensman (before she was rich and famous) who I think followed it without a fall. I believe Tim and Larry both shared belay slave duty and both might have even given it a go at one point. So the FA was actually PD, BB, TC and LC.
|By Robbie Brown|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I placed 2 green c3 and a purple c3 on this route... Bring some small gear for an onsight attempt.
|By Ryan Z|
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Good call on the TCU's ^ Got the onsight today! Short, pumpy, and beautiful.