This is a new route in between Fantasia and Pick Pocket (aka Man-tasia). Start on a giant, leaning flake and climb up a crack system, then move right on to face sequences. There is a great no-hands rest halfway.
The new guidebook says "spicy, yet well protected" up top. There wasn't anything spicy about it, but it was very good. Of the 6 5.10s we did in the area, this was the consensus best.
By Aeon Aki Administrator Mar 14, 2010 rating: 5.10+6b+21VII+E3 5b
This really is one of the best 5.10s at Shelf. Great movement on good rock with nice stances and increasingly more difficult climbing as you go. Watch out for the microwave-sized Death Block near the last bolt. It is completely detached and is being held in there by nothing but dirt. It would be a public service to trundle that thing before it comes off unexpectedly and crashes into the belayer, dog, or toddler cage that may be staged below the route. It is easy enough to avoid but be careful!
Did a chunk come off of this route just below the anchors, to the right? Looks like there's something missing up there, and sure felt like it, too. Doesn't look like it was the block Aeon mentioned, but does look like a recent rockfall.
By Top Rope Hero From: Was Estes Park, now homeless Oct 25, 2010 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-E2 5b
Full ton of fun, though I give it a 10b--felt at least a grade easier, less committing, than Blackman's just around the corner. (Though I went far left, where the chalk runs, at the anchors. Did I cheat?)
Still, a wild ride--definitely worth doin'....
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 30, 2011 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VIIE2 5b