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 ADVANCED
Jabba Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
(Enter) Sandman S 
Better Eat Yo Wheaties  S 
Blue Light Special T 
Bush & Dirt Crack aka Pseudo-Cenotaph aka I Need a Shower T 
Dune  S 
Face To Nowhere T 
For Better Or For Worse S 
I Need a Batholith S 
In Mesopotamia T 
Jabba the Hutt Levitates T 
Odale'! S 
Offwidth Crack T 
Steve Likes Offwidth T 
Three Open Books T 

Three Open Books 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,056
Submitted By: eDixon on Jun 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Three Open Books.

Description 

This is a pretty fun route that not many climb, since the start doesn't have much gear. Most traverse in from the right to keep the grade at 5.9. It is also possible to do a direct start that goes at 5.10+. Gain a left-facing crack that forms several small roofs and follow it to the top.

THERE IS A FIXED STATIC LINE IN THIS AREA THAT IS USED BY THE LOCAL SAR AND CLIMBING COMMUNITY. PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE IT! IT IS EASILY FLICKED OUT OF THE WAY WHEN CLIMBING. THANKS.


Location 

The route starts on the face left of Jabba the Hutt Levitates.


Protection 

Standard East A rack & a couple drilled pins?



Comments on Three Open Books Add Comment
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By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Dec 3, 2009

This is an old route, done in the '70s, with the gear of that era, and without the fixed gear that has been added. It was an excellent testpiece for those seeking some boldness at that grade. Now someone has F'd it with some lame, drilled angles. Way to go, pus!

By -mn
Mar 31, 2010

So why can't we keep the Contortionist as a bold testpiece for the grade? At least on that route there's natural gear. On 3 Open Books, before the pins were added, your first piece of pro was 25 ft. up in the first book! I believe these bolts are more warranted as long as they were placed by the f.a. party (probably not).

By Tim Kuss
From: Durango, CO
Mar 31, 2010

Definitely not. I realize how that statement could be taken as hypocritical. The difference being the bolts placed by the first ascent party.Also, there is no "boldness factor" on the Contortionist.
See also: thread for Contortionist.

By Kevin Sainio
From: Durango, CO
Oct 23, 2010

This really is a great line. Probably one of my favorites. Just because it has the pins doesn't mean you have to clip them. I suggest you don't for full value. Even though the protection up to the first book isn't great, a couple of nuts can still be placed. Have fun!

By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
Dec 10, 2010

The pins, in my opinion, are unnecessary (unless taking the direct start- that would be proud without the first pin). The traverse in from the right is hard off the deck but immediately eases. With modern gear this route is no worse than most other trad lines here. I found a small cam (000 TCU-ish) and nut placement below the second pin and other nut immediately after. With very modern gear, i.e. a hybrid Alien, blue-black or blue-yellow I'm guessing, you'd be golden.