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Capen Park
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Three Horns 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: First lead by Brian Westbury and Stuart Schneider in the fall of 1976
Page Views: 412
Submitted By: James Dolph on Nov 9, 2008

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Michael McKay climbs through the opening layback s...

Description 

Lieback up the obvious right-facing flake just right of BonVoyage to a small roof. Traverse right under the roof. Mantle up on a small shelf and move straight to the top on a slightly overhanging rock. The name ThreeHorns is a bit misleading for this route. The first horn is a little shorter than it used to be. A local climber, TomEvans, was doing this route when much to his surprise he pulled off most of the first horn! The belayer was rudely awakened by the rock fall. The second horn is still intact. However, the third horn, once looped for protection for the lead was removed in much the same manner as the first. This should give you some insight into the nature of leading at capen park


Location 

large right facing flake


Protection 

natural anchors, bolts



Photos of Three Horns Slideshow Add Photo
Michael climbs through the crux section of Three Horns at Capen Park.  This section of the route boasts long, dynamic moves between huge holds on steep rock.
Michael climbs through the crux section of Three H...
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By Elijah Flenner
Mar 12, 2009

The description is a little off since the first roof fell down several years ago. Just climb straight up. Lots of loose rock, but you are at Capen. I would say to avoid this climb at most areas, but if you have climbed everything else the movement is fun.