Three Fingered Jack Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: On the approach
|Remember to get a Wilderness permit at the trailhead|
Three Fingered Jack, named for its distinctive shape, is a Pleistocene volcano in the Cascade Range of Oregon. It is a deeply glaciated shield volcano and consists mainly of basaltic andesite lava.It was first climbed in 1923 by six boys from Bend, Oregon, or members of The Mazamas. Generally the rock quality is poor, although it is better closer to the summit. Jack isn't a very technical mountain, by the easiest route, but it offers stunning views of most of the cascade volcanoes to both the north and south. Usually once you break the treeline it is pretty windy, and most ascents are done from June through October.
From Hwy 20 from either Bend/Sisters or from Salem the turn off and approach to Jack is from the Pacific Crest Trail access parking lot that is located just off the hwy just east of Hoodoo ski area but before Santiam Pass signage. Don't forget to bring your Northwest Forest Pass to park in the lot.
Weather station 4.5 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Three Fingered Jack
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Three Fingered Jack:
Featured Route For Three Fingered Jack
South Ridge Route 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
: Oregon Volcanoes
: Three Fingered Jack
Find the climbers trail off the PCT about 5 miles in, there is a very large cairn marking the climbers trail so don't jump the gun to get on the ridge to early! Follow the climbers trail uphill onto the ridge proper then traverse the ridge uphill towards the summit plug. The trail is easy to follow and you don't need or really want to rope up till the traverse about 250 vertical feet below the summit, at this point most will rope up for the very low 5th class traverse that has some good exposure...[more] Browse More Classics in OR
BETA PHOTO: The technical pitch to the summit.
Jul 8, 2011
The chimney guarding the summit felt like 5.6 R to me and was super loose the first 30 feet, but I was wearing mountain boots... sweet line, ton of snow from about 4500 up the south ridge.