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Three Charlies 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: Alex Mitchell on Jun 1, 2012
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Description 

Both climbs share their final 3 bolts, but the left variation starts left of the crack splitting the base of the pillar above the turret, the right starts right of the crack. The left variant has better holds, but further apart, and you can deck if you blow it before the third bolt. The right variant has smaller, less positive holds closer together, but has better clipping stances, and you'll only deck if you blow the second clip entirely.


Protection 

5 bolts


Location 

Pillar down and right from the big Poker Face Alice roof. Look for a little castle-turret thing to belay from.



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By Brian Scoggins
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 17, 2012

Warning! Useful route description to follow:
Location - Pillar down and right from the big Poker Face Alice roof. Look for a little castle-turret thing to belay from.

Description - Both climbs share their final 3 bolts, but the left variation starts left of the crack splitting the base of the pillar above the turret, the right starts right of the crack. The left variant has better holds, but further apart, and you can deck if you blow it before the third bolt. The right variant has smaller, less positive holds closer together, but has better clipping stances, and you'll only deck if you blow the second clip entirely.

5 bolts for the left variant, 6 bolts for the right.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jul 17, 2012

Thanks for taking the time to add a description Brian.

To the original poster, Alex:

After noticing this route posting, I glanced through some of your other MP route entries, and there is one consistent theme: they are lacking a decent route description and there are very few (if any) details regarding how to find the climb. Its great that your are entering routes into the MP database, but when you do so, try and take the time to add an entry that will be useful to the community. Otherwise you are just submitting place holders, which prevents someone like Brian from entering a more complete description.

By Alex Mitchell
From: Utica, NY
Feb 5, 2014

Sorry just saw these comments. I updated the route and since have started making a better try at posting better info.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 5, 2014

Very good. Thanks Alex!! Cheers.