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Three Cam Party 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,047
Submitted By: RadDawg on Jun 5, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: 3 Cam Party

Description 

This route offers some nice face climbing on quality rock with adequate protection. Climb up a few slab moves to an obvious horizontal with a shallow but OK TCU placement. Go over this and up the white streak past another shallow TCU slot on your left (00) to the narrow ledge that runs across the top of the friction slab. Proceed straight up the steeper black headwall directly over a thin flake with some nice positive holds (more TCU's). Continue up easier terrain to an anchor station that's located at about the same height as the Dihedral P1 station.

The bottom of this route was likely first climbed by Dave Buck and company by esentially soloing the crux section (1970's). Nathan & Patty Wilmoth helped me re-discover this line when Nathan located a key TCU placement on rappel. Paul Barnes and I figured out the more direct upper headwall finish and I lead it on the same day we did Latest Edition.


Location 

Halfway between the Dihedral route and the Army cable, about 15 yds right of the Dihedral. It's basically in the center of the friction slab.


Protection 

Double TCU's in grey, purple & blue, small stoppers and other small/medium cams



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By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Oct 20, 2009

OK, I'm sure this was just a mistake, but someone has retro bolted this route. If you look closely at that picture (cell phone camera, all I had at the time), you'll see the TCU below and left of the bolt in the white streak.

By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Oct 20, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This route is nowhere near sketchy without the bolt. Oversight or not, the culprit ought to be able to see a good gear placement nearby. Someone please chop it.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 20, 2009

This bolt is inexcusable. I haven't led the route, but the pro is obvious even from the ground. Hopefully Jody and Michael will dispose of this very soon.

By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Dec 4, 2009

I've corresponded with the person that installed this bolt, they didn't see that TCU placement and intend to remove the bolt the next time they are in the area.