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 ADVANCED
Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Age Before Beauty T 
Bombardment T 
Effects of Kind Bud on an Abnormal Brain, The T 
Ego Trip T,S 
Fisting Jon (AKA Leafspring) T 
Fun House T 
Fun House Left T 
Happy Trails T 
King Crab (Girdle Traverse of Cathedral Ledge) T 
Once Upon A Climb T 
One Hit To The Body T 
Pleasant St. T 
Pooh T 
Son Of A Birch T 
Starfire (Yo-Yo) T 
Three Birches T 
Ventilated Western Girl T,S 
Ventilator T 
Western Lady/ California Girls T 
Unsorted Routes:

Three Birches 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: S. Streibert, J. Reppy, H. May Sept 1963
Page Views: 2,158
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
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Under the roof of Three Birches

Description 

A nice climb, stout in the grade...
Very aesthetic...
Pitch 1: Follow the arch up and right (harder than it looks). Focus on foot work though the feet are slick from wear (this section can be wet too, joy).... After the arch, follow cracks to a clump of trees belay from trees or build an anchor in the cracks....
Pitch 2: Continues up thin cracks to gain a huge layback offwidth flake.... Follow the flake up to a left-facing corner.... Climb the corner and mantel (a little tricky, look for less than obvious pockets).... From here, climb slabs, then exit right to a cluster of trees to belay (same finish as Fun House (5.7).... Easy climbing to the Barber Wall ledge....

Location 

In the middle of the lower, left wall, you will see an obvious right-leaning arch.... The first pitch climbs this feature and cracks above....

Protection 

Trad gear, a few fixed pins and an old fixed cam.... Belay from trees and gear....


Photos of Three Birches Slideshow Add Photo
The leaves are starting to get some color... And my Dad is finishing up the final slabs on the Birches...
The leaves are starting to get some color... And m...
The start
BETA PHOTO: The start

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By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 4, 2010

I actually find the first pitch to be pretty enjoyable when dry with fun smeering/edging and good finger jams. On the second pitch one can lead up to the tree with slings, clip it long and do a slab traverse left into the 5.8/9? crack finish to what I believe it is starfire? The finish is dirty but kind of fun.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 6, 2010

The key words E- "when dry" ! ya that finish is YoYo/Starfire.
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Dec 25, 2011

You can link the first two pitches with a 60m and careful slinging. Definately try the Starfire finish if it is dry. Tons of fun!
By hasan
From: portland,me
Apr 22, 2013

The fixed cam's sling is in quite bad shape thats near the start.
By Alissa Doherty
From: Boston, MA
Oct 7, 2013

I agree that the fixed cam is manky at the start. I fell and it caught me but I noticed afterwards that it was a little too loose to trust.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Apr 28, 2014

I used to guide this route a lot via a fun little variation that avoids both cruxes---an awesome alternative if Funhouse is all jammed up. About 50 feet right of Three Birches (3Bs), head up the 3rd class approach to Funhouse. About 20 feet below the start of Funhouse, walk left on an obvious little tree ledge until it ends. If you look down and left you will see 3Bs coming right up at you, and you will be level with the top of the arch seen in the photos. There is a tree to belay from. Place a tiny nut under the obvious overlap and then make one loooong (and slightly mossy) step over left to intersect with the 3Bs crack (you'll need that little piece of gear when leading because you're starting about 35 feet off the ground). Continue up to the 1st belay for 3Bs. Done this way, the first pitch is about 5.7. On the second pitch, go up and slightly right into the long layback flake, but before getting to the befuddling (and slightly heady) crux bulge on 3Bs, trend nicely up and right and finish up the beautiful little face on the second pitch of Funhouse, aiming for an obvious red pine at the top. Use long slings to keep the drag down. This pitch is about 5.6. This is a great little combo that no one ever does!!! If you look at the beta photo at the top of the page (labeled "under the arch") the belayer that is just visible at the top right of the photo is exactly at the spot where you will be coming in from the right (and the real P.1 belay for 3Bs is about 40 feet above the belayer in the pic.)