|Lower Left Wall / Ventilator Slabs
A nice climb, stout in the grade...
Pitch 1: Follow the arch up and right (harder than it looks). Focus on foot work though the feet are slick from wear (this section can be wet too, joy).... After the arch, follow cracks to a clump of trees belay from trees or build an anchor in the cracks....
Pitch 2: Continues up thin cracks to gain a huge layback offwidth flake.... Follow the flake up to a left-facing corner.... Climb the corner and mantel (a little tricky, look for less than obvious pockets).... From here, climb slabs, then exit right to a cluster of trees to belay (same finish as Fun House (5.7).... Easy climbing to the Barber Wall ledge....
In the middle of the lower, left wall, you will see an obvious right-leaning arch.... The first pitch climbs this feature and cracks above....
Trad gear, a few fixed pins and an old fixed cam.... Belay from trees and gear....
The leaves are starting to get some color... And m...
BETA PHOTO: The start
|By E thatcher|
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Apr 4, 2010
I actually find the first pitch to be pretty enjoyable when dry with fun smeering/edging and good finger jams. On the second pitch one can lead up to the tree with slings, clip it long and do a slab traverse left into the 5.8/9? crack finish to what I believe it is starfire? The finish is dirty but kind of fun.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Apr 6, 2010
The key words E- "when dry" ! ya that finish is YoYo/Starfire.
|By Matt Desenberg|
From: Wells, Me
Dec 25, 2011
You can link the first two pitches with a 60m and careful slinging. Definately try the Starfire finish if it is dry. Tons of fun!
Apr 22, 2013
The fixed cam's sling is in quite bad shape thats near the start.
|By Alissa Doherty|
From: Boston, MA
Oct 7, 2013
I agree that the fixed cam is manky at the start. I fell and it caught me but I noticed afterwards that it was a little too loose to trust.