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This route has two distinct cruxes both protected by bolts and a great finish. It wanders a bit following the weaknesses so I would bring some shoulder length slings to reduce rope drag after the first crux.
The route is named for a spot about 15 feet up where you can thread a long sling for excellent pro until you reach a triangle shaped horn you can sling. Above that you get gear in or clip bolts.
Left end of N. face up the gully. The start is just right of Don't Look A Gift Block. A low single bolt below some solid but sketchy looking blocks and a small left facing corner about 10 feet up is the start.
Bolts and gear to red Camalot. Stoppers to 3/4 inch and double up on finger sized cams.
BETA PHOTO: Jimbo moving back left to the main weakness on the...
Andy Bennett just after the first crux.
Andy Bennett on the route. The route ends in the ...
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|By Clay Mansfield|
Oct 1, 2013
Just plain fun climbing.
Depending on what you're getting on at the Reef, this can be a perfect part of your warmup: big holds, plenty of body movement, and good rests if you so desire.