An old-school Tucson route, linking obvious features left of Cripple Creek. For the FA, RR and I poached the line from Steve Grossman and Fig, who had been up to the crux several months earlier (I remember guiltily avoiding them for weeks afterwards). We did it in three pitches, but the first two likely have been combined by now (if not, they should, although double ropes or liberal slinging may be necessary). I vaguely remember that we named it for the crux maneuver, thinking we were so clever, only later to find out that the phrase was somewhat well worn, even then. The crux is well protected, but expect some true trad excitement elsewhere.
Begin by climbing up to a small left-facing dihedral left of the first pitch of Cripple Creek. Work up the dihedral (the crux) to a small roof, turning it on the left. Traverse left and up about 10 feet on easier ground to a ledge, then head straight up blocks to a more substantial roof. Work right to an obvious chickenhead and a sling belay near the right edge of the roof. (2) Climb up to a bolt and wander up 5.9 face linking incipient cracks to the belay ledge atop the second pitch of Cripple Creek (and the belay for Gashlycrumb Tinies). (3) Traverse left until possible to surmount a bulge on good chickenheads and follow the buttess to the top.
Double cams to 3 inch, full set plus of wired nuts, including micro brass or steel, many runners.
|Comments on Thrash and Dangle
|By Paul Davidson|
Mar 9, 2010
29 years later Steve was still mumbling to me about route theft...