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thoughts on the new rumney guide book...
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By lee hansche
Administrator
From goffstown, nh
Dec 2, 2009
getting to the last jug before the top out

so at long last it has arrived... the rumney book is out and we can no longer talk at length about the roomers and hear-say about when it will come out... now its time to talk about the book it self... many things have been added, changed, upgraded, downgraded and more... how do you feel about the new routes, areas, names, grades etc...

Over all i love the new book... basically its just like the old one but with more routes which is nice... really i think ward did a great job and if you happen upon this thread ward, thank you for all your work...

im psyched to check out the new 2 cliffs, and really psyched to get on some of the newly developed routes on the assorted NW crags ...


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Dec 2, 2009
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

I'm not a fan of the slash grades myself. I feel as though a commitment should be made to either a higher or lower grade.

Anyway, it's nice to see all of the new stuff in the guide. I am also happy to see Thin Man upgraded to 13b. Not sure if Predator deserved the big downgrade (half-downgrade, actually) to 13a/b.


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By Pal Pocsi
From Budapest, Hungary
Dec 2, 2009
Scoping out the start of the route.

Man, I can't wait to get a copy of the book the next time I get back up to Rumney. If it's as good as the old one, I'll be thrilled. I've been borrowing a friend's copy for about a year now :-)


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By Tom Bath
From Kent, Wa
Dec 2, 2009
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Mt only complaint is that there are too many pics of that Hansche guy ;)


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From goffstown, nh
Dec 2, 2009
getting to the last jug before the top out

yeah that is weird that so many routes got noncommittal grades...

Blues for Mowgli- 12d... nice that thing is hard...
Big Kahuna- half upgrade lame... or maybe im just bummed cause i havnt sent yet...
Know Ethics- 11a? with the right beta it feels mid 5.10...
Orangahang- 12a that thing is soooo hard for me it took me more tries than any 5.12c or 5.12d ive done and it got the half down grade...
Dirtigo- 5.2 making us work for the 5.3 grade these days i guess haha...

i could go on but ill save it :)


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From goffstown, nh
Dec 2, 2009
getting to the last jug before the top out

Tom Bath wrote:
Mt only complaint is that there are too many pics of that Hansche guy ;)

you must not have gotten your copy yet tom, haha... no pics of me but i did manage to squeek in a few new routes :)


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Dec 2, 2009

Tom Bath wrote:
Mt only complaint is that there are too many pics of that Hansche guy ;)


his ugly mug is already all over the interwebs.. i don't need to see that in a book too ;)

(put in my order this week.. can't wait)


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By E thatcher
From Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Dec 2, 2009
First ascent of the metal arches in my school library...Holderness School

I know it's fairly insignificant, but I was surprised that Egg McMeadows got upgraded to a 5.10. Feels easier then most of my favorite 5.9's. I'm assuming its because it's harder to On-sight then do again after a zillian laps.


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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Dec 2, 2009
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledge, NH

I think the guidebook looks great, however I do wish that it had a header or footer on each page stating the cliff/area name, approach time, sun time, and overall wetness of the area.


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Dec 2, 2009

E thatcher wrote:
I know it's fairly insignificant, but I was surprised that Egg McMeadows got upgraded to a 5.10. Feels easier then most of my favorite 5.9's. I'm assuming its because it's harder to On-sight then do again after a zillian laps.


even easier than that with the annual ticking of the hidden hold


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By Tparis
From Pottersville,New York
Dec 3, 2009
fall foliage 5.7+ slab

E thatcher wrote:
I know it's fairly insignificant, but I was surprised that Egg McMeadows got upgraded to a 5.10. Feels easier then most of my favorite 5.9's. I'm assuming its because it's harder to On-sight then do again after a zillian laps.


Yes! I can now climb 5.10!!!!!


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By Jeffrey LeCours
From New Hampshire
Dec 3, 2009

I think the guidebook looks great. I enjoyed flipping through and seeing photos of friends or taken by friends. I would have liked to see a map for the summit cliff and monolith... but I'm happy enough to get a listing of the new development that's been done at them. As I wasn't fortunate enough to own a copy of the previous guidebook, I enjoyed reading the brief history of Rumney and the descriptions of a lot of routes I never noticed on MP (e.g., The Opportunist @ Orange Crush). :)

Thanks and cheers Ward! Much appreciated!


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Dec 3, 2009
Cool movement on this line

I agree the half grades are a little weird, but the book is great, i especially like knowing all the NW cliffs full info now. Thanks Ward


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By Jay Knower
Administrator
From Campton, NH
Dec 3, 2009
Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.

Ladd Raine wrote:
I think the guidebook looks great, however I do wish that it had a header or footer on each page stating the...overall wetness of the area.


That would be "very high" wetness, for all crags.


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By eric larson
From aurora, co
Dec 3, 2009
suspender man

Ladd Raine wrote:
, and overall wetness of the area.



Its New England.. I think overall, it's a moot point...

that being said i can't wait to come back to NE and climb rumney again with a guidebook!


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By JSH
Administrator
Dec 3, 2009
JSH @ home <br /> <br />photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker

Funny; Egg McMeadows was my first Rumney 10 once upon a time.

Then came a new guidebook. Someone must have heard me bragging (hah!), because Egg McMeadows was reset to 9.

Now it's 10 again? I need lithium ;-)

Thanks, Ward et al. - it's great to have all the new info. What a labor of love.


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By matthewWallace
From plymouth, nh
Dec 3, 2009
Cool movement on this line

To me Egg McMeadows was a 10 because I have always though it to be harder than Masterpiece...I never know it was originally a 10


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By lee hansche
Administrator
From goffstown, nh
Dec 3, 2009
getting to the last jug before the top out

i was never a big fan of the route, but Mr.Popular got the upgrade to 5.10a which i thought made sense seeing as the crux move feels harder than some 5.11s at rumney...

Also i was surprised that obi-won lost its "+" i thought that would go up to 5.10a due to the one hard move... maybe in the spirit of split grades it should have gone to 5.9/9+/10a, haha...


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By Jake D.
From Northeast
Dec 3, 2009

I've always found Obi won to be easier than Yoda so i'm Ok with that one. I haven't done Egg Mcmeadows recently enough to compare it to masterpiece.. they are 2 totally different types of climbing so that's not really fair. Egg McMeadows is easier than Lonesome Dove though

how long do books take to get from NH to RI gahh *twiddles thumbs*


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By Christopher Gagne
From Dover
Dec 4, 2009
me on into another world pawtuckaway

Ladd Raine wrote:
I think the guidebook looks great, however I do wish that it had a header or footer on each page stating the cliff/area name, approach time, sun time, and overall wetness of the area.


I would have to agree it seems that all the new Guide books, I've seen, for set areas like Rumney have this feature. The Red River gorge has it along with Boston Rock, which covers most of the State of Mass, Maybe next time around...

All in all I'm pleased with the work that Ward and the other cats did on the new guide book.


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By Blake Cash
Dec 4, 2009

christohper wrote:
I would have to agree it seems that all the new Guide books, I've seen, for set areas like Rumney have this feature. The Red River gorge has it along with Boston Rock, which covers most of the State of Mass, Maybe next time around... All in all I'm pleased with the work that Ward and the other cats did on the new guide book.


The Red has it b/c there are dry and wet cliffs there. Rumney has no dry and wet cliffs. He tells you if a route stays dry in the rain...
at least in the first guidebook he did.


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By Christopher Gagne
From Dover
Dec 4, 2009
me on into another world pawtuckaway

Blake Cash wrote:
The Red has it b/c there are dry and wet cliffs there. Rumney has no dry and wet cliffs. He tells you if a route stays dry in the rain... at least in the first guidebook he did.



True Blake but at the same time the other info would be good for people that are new to the area and just general usage by old hats...


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By Blake Cash
Dec 4, 2009

christohper wrote:
True Blake but at the same time the other info would be good for people that are new to the area and just general usage by old hats...


Agreed. Sun/Shade is a big deal especially in Rumney. Main Cliff (don't even bother until 4pm on in the summer or you will cook to death...etc...


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By James Otey
From NH
Dec 4, 2009
Urban Surfer, Rumney. <br /> <br />Photo by Lee Hansche

That Thin Man upgrade was long overdue...


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By Jon H
From Boulder
Dec 6, 2009
At the matching crux

I'm just bummed out that my old guidebook isn't worth $100 on eBay any more.


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By Ben C
From Portland, OR
Dec 6, 2009
just before the crux

Jon H wrote:
I'm just bummed out that my old guidebook isn't worth $100 on eBay any more.


they arn't!!! what am i going to do with my stockpile of them then!!! blast...


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