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Exploratory Surgery T 
Fiend, The T,S 
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Thought Control S 

Thought Control 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: [Dan Michael and Brian Hansen, 1987}
Page Views: 1,219
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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He's at the top. Wheee!!!

Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located on the southern end of the rock, or the part closest to the creek bottom. The first bolt for this route is about 20ft off the deck, and is 5.9 climbing up to it so be careful. The crux is a balancy pull or traverse past the second bolt. This route requires some good footwork and would get a 10a rating in most areas. Rap with a single 50m from the bolts.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Seventy feet to the anchors so a 50m is sufficient. Rapping back on the east slab is preferrable since the anchors are on that face.


Photos of Thought Control Slideshow Add Photo
Ben starts up the thin face.
Ben starts up the thin face.
Topo.  Yellow is Bladder Control.  Green is Thought Control.
BETA PHOTO: Topo. Yellow is Bladder Control. Green is Though...
Stuart Hall, moving through the balancy crux.
Stuart Hall, moving through the balancy crux.

Comments on Thought Control Add Comment
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By Michael Komarnitsky
Founding Father
From: Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2001

The first bolt is about 15 feet above the ground, and a little spicy (as Pat would say), but not overly dangerous. The friction is incredible on this route. Its also kind of confusing where the anchors are - they e actually up and right out through the corner of the roof, and then about a foot back. Placement was not the best... Also, this is the route where Ben Mottinger was climbing with Steve Knoll who fell between bolts 2 and 3 and broke his foot. A short 1/4 mile fireman carry later, and they got someone to help. So watch that third clip! (who says you can't get hurt sport climbing?)
By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Jan 1, 2001

Just to add a bit to the story of Steve. To this day, we can'treally figure out HOW he broke his ankle. He took what appeared to be a clean 12ft. fall but must have caught his foot on a small edge.

The result was a completely shattered ankle which required 13 screws and two plates in surgery that night. Now "Frankenfoot" is getting back into climbing, but a freak accident like that really makes you second guess yourself when you have to get back on the sharp end.
By Doug Redosh
Apr 17, 2003

Could not see anchors from the ground, or the boulder across the creek, or for that matter, from higher up in the gully to the east. Are they still there?For that reason, and also that the creek was high yesterday and approach difficult, we did not do the route.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I am reasonably certain that there are anchors up top, as I believe I clipped those while climbing on The Mountaineer's Route. You can refer to my entry for that route. If they are not the particular anchors you are looking for and are perhaps from some other sport route, you could continue on the slabby 5.4 arete of the Mountaineer's ROute to reach the anchors I have mentioned to retreat. In either case, getting off should not be a difficult nor dangerous task.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2003

The anchors ARE hard to see. I don't think you can see them from the base as they are over the ridge. But I think you can see them from the trail, they are just very hard to spot. It's possible they are gone but more likely they are just camouflaged. As Tony said, it wouldn't be a disaster if you climbed up and found them missing anyway.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2003

I would also recommend taking some gear on this route (maybe a few stoppers and small cams). I think you may be able to get something in between the bolts, but I don't really remember. If the top anchors are missing, you would want some gear.
By Brian Hansen
From: West of Boulder, CO
Apr 18, 2003

The second set of anchors farther up the ridge that Tony mentions in his Mountaineer's Route description is probably at the top of a west-facing route called Auspice (.11c?), established by Dan Michael in 1987. We used this anchor when establishing Thought Control. The lower anchor for Thought Control was added later.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 25, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The anchors are still there as of 3/25/4. 2 coldshuts appearing oxidized. Also, not much supplemental gear til you get above the 4th bolt. Then, you might not need it.
By New Guy
Jun 30, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

My name is Michael Israelson, but I could only enter NEW GUY because I lack savvy. I have great memories of Thought Control dating to our first climb of it in high school- Alan Doak's first 5.9 lead. Aesthetic and fun- back then there was no anchor at 70 feet- went back last month with Ryan Cable to check out this pretty route, tucked into Bear Canyon and far enough away from the raptors to qualify as "legal." Richard Rossiter listed "Old man of Hoy" as the left flake lay back that rotated onto the south face- I also started as Old Man Of Hoy but then cut up and right beneath the roof to finish as for Thought Control- a worthy variation, though a bit lichenous. Bring some snacks and hang out in the creek where the Zen will save your soul...-Izzy
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Aug 11, 2008

Greetings, I will post this as a three-star route...I loved this one when I first climbed it!. I found a clear head was all you needed when encountering some of the "run-out" spots. Anchors are up over the lip, right of the wall's apex, and are technically on the east face. Fun moves, unique rock, and a little spice make this an awesome 5.9. Peace, Young Doug.