Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank  5.13b

541 page views Good page?

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.13a [details] FA:  Season:  Summer, Spring, & Fall Submitted By:  gordwah on Aug 1, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>> FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5280647.pdf. For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Absolute classic! To avoid 13b out the roof, go left before the roof FOR AN 11C and go to the anchors of Measure Up! The crux on the 11c is out the super sweet dihedral, go for a jug with your left hand and get another jug with your right & THEN CLIP THE BOLT AT THE TOP OF THE DIHEDRAL. Don't get suckered to clip before the jugs. Tom R. fell off clipping that bolt and almost ripped his teeth out! For the 13b, the crux is out the roof + hanging on. If you don't do this route, you're crazy!

Location 

This is on Chicken Head Ranch, see the guidebook for more information!

Protection 

8 bolts for the 11c ONLY!! and about 13 bolts on the 13b.