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Chicken Head Ranch
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Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank S 
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Wishbone Dihedral S 
Yellow Dot S 

Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer, Spring, & Fall
Page Views: 1,259
Submitted By: gordwah on Aug 1, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Absolute classic! To avoid 13b out the roof, go left before the roof FOR AN 11C and go to the anchors of Measure Up! The crux on the 11c is out the super sweet dihedral, go for a jug with your left hand and get another jug with your right & THEN CLIP THE BOLT AT THE TOP OF THE DIHEDRAL. Don't get suckered to clip before the jugs. Tom R. fell off clipping that bolt and almost ripped his teeth out! For the 13b, the crux is out the roof + hanging on. If you don't do this route, you're crazy!

Location 

This is on Chicken Head Ranch, see the guidebook for more information!

Protection 

8 bolts for the 11c ONLY!! and about 13 bolts on the 13b.


Comments on Those Who Crank & Those Who Wank Add Comment
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By Falon Morris
Sep 3, 2012

Great route! Felt way easier than 5.13b, maybe 12d, just an opinion.
By Falon Morris
Sep 3, 2012

GREAT ROUTE!!!!
By Kai Huang
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 14, 2013

If you left a bail draw on this climb and want it back, let me know.
By Abel Jones
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 21, 2014
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

11b to a full no hands rest before a V5ish crux.... Maybe V6 with the clips...but I think that puts this route in an the honest 12c/d range for me. Fun moves throughout.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 13, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Super fun route. The stemming on the lower half is great, and after you have done it a couple times, you can fly right up it and feel like a hero. The boulder problem at the top had one move on it that really took all of my effort - if you sag the slightest bit it just isn't going to happen. After that, if you can throw the rope through the draw, it is just a matter of hanging on for dear life as you clip the anchors. Not sure what to call it grade wise, it isn't my usual style of route (actually the first time I tried it, I didn't really know if I even liked it that much, but it really grew on me once I started figuring it out). Regardless of grade, I highly recommend it.