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 ADVANCED
Merimere Face
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Lightening Strike TR 
Thor's Hammer T,TR 

Thor's Hammer 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Mike Heinz, Tony Trocchi, 1975
Page Views: 4,404
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Another shot of the climb (Keith Hoek)

Open with restrictions - Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route ascends the obvious stairstep dihedral on the Merimere Face. A Connecticut classic. Although obvious from the road below, this is somewhat tricky to find when approaching from the blue trail from the parking lot at the castle. Be sure to look at the landmarks around the climb as you drive up.

Climb the relatively easy corner to the first roof, undercling left (crux), and continue up a wide crack through another smaller roof to the top. A belay can be set after the first undercling to lessen rope drag.

Approach from the Metacomet trail. A gully on the south side gives access from the trail.

This can be toproped but a fall from under the crux overhang generates a very wild swing into space.

Protection 

Bring some big stuff (#4, #5 camalot) if you want to lead this. Doubles of the bigs might be nice, mainly to keep the rope off of the first one as you turn the massive corners.





Photos of Thor's Hammer Slideshow Add Photo
Shot from the access road. Tarp used to mark top of route for anchor placement. Tarp was roughly 5'x 5' to give you an idea of face height. One 60m rope toproped was perfect length wise.
BETA PHOTO: Shot from the access road. Tarp used to mark top o...
James Rush just past the crux.
James Rush just past the crux.
Here is a shot from the base of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Here is a shot from the base of the route.
Thors Hammer from the base with my friend half way up...
Thors Hammer from the base with my friend half way...
Traversing under the first roof. You need a large cam to protect the second roof above.
Traversing under the first roof. You need a large ...

Comments on Thor's Hammer Add Comment
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By jackkelly00
May 28, 2010

Best 5.9 in CT.
By FooDawg
From: New Haven, CT
Nov 2, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Really a great climb. We toproped it and the swing from the crux was nothing to fear too badly. The route is solid. Finding it from the top was a pain, think there should be a marking somewhere at top to denote anchor placement for TRing.

Recommend rappeling to the bottom because hiking it is the suck lol.

By MJMobes
From: The land of steady habits
Nov 2, 2010

its funny how CT climbing has many classic climbs with no trail to the base of the climb. it is a loose, chossy bushwack to the base of this true classic.
By jason malczyk
From: General Delivery
Mar 11, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A 60 meter rope doubled up (30 meter rap) made it to the bottom but watch your ends. There is a great pine tree to set a anchor off that you rap in lookers left of the route, bring some extra webbing if top roping to get over the edge. Best land mark is the rock outcrop that makes up the stair step roofs. Raping in is easy hiking in is hard. No bolts needed on this classic.
By Kurtz
Sep 24, 2012

Keep yourself and your rope out of the POISON IVY at base!
By Ksween
From: Wakefield, RI
Nov 24, 2012

Followed this today. The jug moving out of the squeeze just above the second roof is covered in bird poop. Copius amounts of poop. Sooo much poop. You will be breathing it and wearing it. Bring a powerwasher, or a mask.