Rich "prunes" Bechler looking strong on the first ...
a obvious line with great pumper climbing.also of note is L.S.D. 5.11c climb the left side of t-fare only first lead rich bechler 1984.note #2 Cross Town Traffic 5.11d/5.12a climb the right side only with a hard direct start,very pumpy to place gear first lead rich bechler dale moir and steve sangdahl 1982.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Apr 13, 2005
This climb is the classic 5.11 lead in the park and an entrance exam to the harder, Devil's Lake leads.
The leader should be comfortable placing blind brassies in the right seem, all the while protected from groundfall by a sketchy pin (it actually faces downward). Upon reaching the security of a TCU slot, the climber will definately breathe a sigh of relief before tackling the crux moves.
If you can get to the TCU placement, the climb is well protected as the gear from that point on is good enough to save all the children in the world.
"a obvious line with great pumper climbing.also of note is L.S.D. 5.11c climb the left side of t-fare only first lead rich bechler 1984.note #2 Cross Town Traffic 5.11d/5.12a climb the right side only with a hard direct start,very pumpy to place gear first lead rich bechler dale moir and steve sangdahl 1982."
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Oct 30, 2010 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
I led this today without the use of brassies and in place used 2 C3's in the right seam. This route is surprisingly pumpy! Very good route. The gear is great on this route!
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Mar 31, 2011 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
I will eat my words. The brass offsets really are a great piece to have and place on this route.
By Josh Knapp From: East Troy, Wisconsin Aug 21, 2011 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c PG13
Fantastic route! Great moves! But I felt the difficultly was more on par with mouses misery, and definitely easier than flake route. There really are no moves that you need to "bear down" on. The route is just technical face and with good footwork it isn't super difficult. However, the beginning is a little spooky until the bomber #4 stopper in the right seem. Then at the hand jam you can completely set your mind at ease with a perfect .4 Camalot.
By Paul Campbell From: Sussex, WI Aug 22, 2011 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
To each his own, but I climbed Mouse's years before I climbed Thoroughfare, and Mouse's is only like 3-4 hard moves, besides that; 5.8. Also I haven't sent Flake Route yet because my big ass fingers have trouble fitting in some of the crimp slots. Just another reason to reinforce personal grading I guess.