Thorazine  5.5

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 220 feet Consensus:  5.5 [details] FA:  unknown New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Stich on Aug 24, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Up past some bushes and to the left of the boulder-choked gully where Platinum Stethoscope begins is a hand crack close to the right edge of the slab. This crack takes gear in the 1.5 - 2 inch range. Climb up the crack and the steepness eases off. Pass a small tree about three feet tall on the right. Then enter into a trough about four feet wide with a thin crack on the right side. This takes very small nuts or perhaps a microcam, but the gear is not great. Climb up this 15 ft. trough and go out onto the 5.0-5.2 slab. Pro is harder to find here, but you will more than likely be comfortable running it out the rest of the pitch. Meet up with the walkoff for the first two pitches of the routes to your right.

We simulclimbed this as one pitch, which is easy to do. The climbing is never sustained and one can easily downclimb the entire thing. Finding your way on the upper slab is easy, as any direction will feel good given the gradually declining steepness. By the time you reach the walkoff, it flattens out.

Location 

Approximately ten feet left of Platinum Stethescope. Locate the gully where Platinum begins and then scramble up and left through the trees to find the hand crack.

Protection 

Standard trad rack for Lumpy, including cams in the 1.5-2 inch range and some microcams/nuts.