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South/East side
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5.8 Crack T 
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Boy What Assholes (You Guys Turned Out to Be) S 
Boy What Nice Fellows T 
Captain Smarmbag T,TR 
Cholla Crack T,TR 
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Nice Guys Finish Last S 
No Exit S,TR 
On Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Overture TR 
Paul's Boutique S 
Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Route 21 T,TR 
Sensuous S T,TR 
Squeeze Chimney T 
Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 
Wildcat S 

Thorazine Dream 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tom MacFarlane, Brian Riepe, 8/89
Season: year round
Page Views: 1,988
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Even when the air temperature is in the 30s, the e...

Description 

Step up to the small roof and clip the first bolt. Pull the roof with a tenuous mantle-type move to really get going. Climb the thin, slabby face past a couple more bolts to a nice no-hands rest ledge. Then gun it through the steep, technical face climbing, using a nice mono pocket along the way through the short, pronounced crux past three more bolts to the anchors. Definitely a sequence to it.


Location 

This is the right-most route on the main wall. Shown as route number 29 on the Overlook route topo photo.


Protection 

Used to be just two bolts then a small gear placement in a horizontal crack before the steep, bolted face with three more bolts to a bolted anchor. However, sometime in the past few years (early 2000s?) a third bolt near the horizontal crack was placed by an unknown driller.



Photos of Thorazine Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Allison pulling hard on the mono through the crux.
Allison pulling hard on the mono through the crux....
Breaking through the crux on fine January day. (This is winter!?)
Breaking through the crux on fine January day. (Th...
Rob Rhine on Thorazine Dream during a Meltdown competition before it was retrobolted.
Rob Rhine on Thorazine Dream during a Meltdown com...
George Perkins near the crux on Thorazine Dream.
George Perkins near the crux on Thorazine Dream.
Finishing the crux of "Thorazine Dream".
Finishing the crux of "Thorazine Dream".
Comments on Thorazine Dream Add Comment
Show which comments
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Apr 4, 2007

rad sequential movement that involves a killer mono!

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 4, 2007

Don't really need any trad gear for this one, the moves between the first and second bolt are pretty easy.

By Roger Rumsey
Feb 1, 2008

Just curious if whoever retrobolted this climb bothered to ask the first ascentionist for permission? Funny, it was a safe lead before retrobolting since the horizontal seam took gear just fine! Next time I see Brian I'll inquiry as to any solicitation for permission. If not, that bolt ought to come out!

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 31, 2009

Thanks to a hardware donation by the ARI, the anchor on this route has been replaced with some quality Fixe hardware, January 2009.

By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Aug 7, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The bolt above the crack has been there for a long time (8 years at a minimum). Roger, this is a sport climb and I really don't see any good reason why that bolt should come out. Can you put a yellow TCU in the horizontal slot? Sure, but the quality of Thorazine as a route comes from the beautiful line and the face that it goes up and having to bring along a cam to plug a runout between bolts seems pointless and in my opinion would detract from the route. I would vote for the bolt to stay.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Oct 21, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

While I agree with you J. Albers that Thorazine is a better route with the bolt in place, I think Roger brings up a valid point about contacting the FAs before the modifying their routes. I think it is disrespectful to retrobolt a route that has a recorded FA party (Tom and Brian) without first soliciting their permission. Please respect the vision of the FAs by not tampering with their hard work behind their backs.

To be clear - this is not a personally directed toward J. Albers. I'm sure you had nothing to do with it. I think this should be obvious but so much of what is said on the internet can be easily misconstrued, so I feel compelled to include this disclaimer.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Oct 23, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Awesome. That is exactly what I was hoping to hear. To clarify my previous post, I do not condone chopping bolts. I think it is equally destructive (as far as the rock is concerned) to remove a bolt as it is to place one. I was merely pointing out that Roger had a valid point in saying that the FA should have been contacted prior to the retrobolt.