Even when the air temperature is in the 30s, the e...
Step up to the small roof and clip the first bolt. Pull the roof with a tenuous mantle-type move to really get going. Climb the thin, slabby face past a couple more bolts to a nice no-hands rest ledge. Then gun it through the steep, technical face climbing, using a nice mono pocket along the way through the short, pronounced crux past three more bolts to the anchors. Definitely a sequence to it.
Used to be just two bolts then a small gear placement in a horizontal crack before the steep, bolted face with three more bolts to a bolted anchor. However, sometime in the past few years (early 2000s?) a third bolt near the horizontal crack was placed by an unknown driller.
Just curious if whoever retrobolted this climb bothered to ask the first ascentionist for permission? Funny, it was a safe lead before retrobolting since the horizontal seam took gear just fine! Next time I see Brian I'll inquiry as to any solicitation for permission. If not, that bolt ought to come out!
Thanks to a hardware donation by the ARI, the anchor on this route has been replaced with some quality Fixe hardware, January 2009.
By J. Albers From: Colorado Aug 7, 2009 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
The bolt above the crack has been there for a long time (8 years at a minimum). Roger, this is a sport climb and I really don't see any good reason why that bolt should come out. Can you put a yellow TCU in the horizontal slot? Sure, but the quality of Thorazine as a route comes from the beautiful line and the face that it goes up and having to bring along a cam to plug a runout between bolts seems pointless and in my opinion would detract from the route. I would vote for the bolt to stay.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA Oct 21, 2009 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
While I agree with you J. Albers that Thorazine is a better route with the bolt in place, I think Roger brings up a valid point about contacting the FAs before the modifying their routes. I think it is disrespectful to retrobolt a route that has a recorded FA party (Tom and Brian) without first soliciting their permission. Please respect the vision of the FAs by not tampering with their hard work behind their backs.
To be clear - this is not a personally directed toward J. Albers. I'm sure you had nothing to do with it. I think this should be obvious but so much of what is said on the internet can be easily misconstrued, so I feel compelled to include this disclaimer.
By Daniel Trugman From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA Oct 23, 2009 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
Awesome. That is exactly what I was hoping to hear. To clarify my previous post, I do not condone chopping bolts. I think it is equally destructive (as far as the rock is concerned) to remove a bolt as it is to place one. I was merely pointing out that Roger had a valid point in saying that the FA should have been contacted prior to the retrobolt.