Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Axis of Power 
Bats in the Belfry 
Blackened 
Bone Crusher 
Bull in a China Shop 
Cowgirl Diplomacy 
Cry Baby 
Evil Offspring 
Evil Surprise  
Fluffy 
Friendly Fire 
Genesis 
Genocide 
Glued, Screwed, and Tatooed 
Got Gingko 
Hand Job 
Haul of Flame 
Heart Shaped Box 
Heart Shaped Drill 
Honed Improvement 
Hooked On Pockets 
Kindest Cut 
Kolaric Energy 
Last Episode 
Limestone Cowgirl 
Mighty Morphin 
Pocket Runt 
Pockets of Resistance 
Power Monger 
Power Trip 
Pretty Pasties 
Razor Burn 
Sacrificial Lizard 
Sandman 
Shortest Straw 
State of Panic 
Swiss Arete 
System in Ruins 
Take Your Pick 
Tales From the Grypt 
Thin Thin, The 
This Old Route 
Total Lack of Jump 
Trick Mechanics 
Twist of Cain 
Twisted Sister 
Under Attack 
Unpopular Mechanics 
Wind Chill 
Zone of Exclusion 

This Old Route 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 363
Submitted By: RyanJohnson on May 29, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

As with most of the main wall, the first few bolts happen to have the hard section. Might be worthwhile to stick clip the first/second bolt. After you get the bottom the rest is pretty comfortable with a couple of tricky moves. Plenty of rest spots on the upper half.


Location 

After getting out of the riverbed and heading up to Bats in the Belfry look for a right facing corner just after the large roof. The base is generally grassy/sandy but plenty flat.


Protection 

About six bolts and then open shut anchors.



Comments on This Old Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
May 31, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

First bolt is no problem to clip. Second bolt, however, presents severe clipping difficulty, I would definitely recommend stick clipping it so you can focus on the crux.

By nicholas bujak
May 23, 2011

Found it to be much harder than the rating suggests.

By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Sep 30, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13

If you are complaining about the grade (^^^^^) you should try and not be fat and weak, for starters.

Soft for the grade like most of Jacks.