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Shining, The 
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This Must Be The Pickle 
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This Must Be The Pickle 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 1,267
Submitted By: Neal Carroll on Oct 12, 2004
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the first of the true "cave" routes, and is one route to the right of "The Shining" (5.13c). Start up on sharp pockets climbing a tad right of the bolts, then step left and establish yourself under the first big overhang. Here the route starts to get hardish, with a very big reach off a not so good undercling...though there is more than one way to do this sequence. This will get you to a big horizontal break, and ready for even steeper climbing above. Surf up to a good right hand pocket, stuff your feet in the break, and get psyched to get pumped. The final headwall on great stone and cool pockets is a gas. There is a tickler finish. I called this route modified because of the obvious glued on "football" that you don't even need to use to get through the crux. WTF?

This route is great for American Fork.


Protection 

Bolts. This route generally has fixed QDs.



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By Anonymous Coward
May 2, 2005

You stand all over, toe hook, etc. the big glued-on "football" on The Shining. You don't really need it for the Pickle.

By Cowboy Roy
From: SLC, UT
Aug 10, 2011

the fixed draws at the crux are getting very worn

By BScallout
Aug 10, 2011

Historical Note:

Bill kept waiting to establish a 5.13. He thought this was it. Turned out it wasn't. Hence the name. In Boyles lexicon a "pickle" was also a bolt.

By T_jones
From: Salty Lake
Aug 11, 2011

Bucc is that you luke?

Should definitely be noted that the quick link on the crux draw is halfway worn through so be careful