This is Only a Test
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BETA PHOTO: This is Only a Test (5.12), Joshua Tree NP
The one bolt variation, direct start to Cactus Flower
. Find the Cactus flower line, with the initial crack off to your left.
Start on a heavily chalked undercling horizontal before popping up into the slopey pinch. Work up in the pod to join the standard Cactus flower.
The guidebook says the grade is .12a-.12d, height dependant. Reaching the slopey pinch is going to suck if you are a shorty.
4 bolts. Supplemental gear possible for the top of the route which you probably won't need. maybe a 3 and a .75 camalot. Bolt anchor.
Apr 12, 2011
Did this many a year ago and found it near impossible (me being only 5'10" on a good day). Height dependent and in the higher 5.12 range for me.
By Mark J Gain
Oct 27, 2012
Fun start to a cool route, but being a little more on the taller side I found it into the lower grades, of .12's and no gimmy even with some height as the book mentions. I would not know what I would confirm it as, of course it does not matter much anyways but a fun variation.
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 1, 2014
I'm 5'8". No go. Would love to see someone my height do this climb so I can steal their beta!