This Bolt's For You  5.10d R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet FA:  unknown Submitted By:  slim on Feb 1, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route is on Atlantis Slab. It is located towards the right side of the crag, just as a steep, bushy, rocky hill meets the wall. The route is visually obvious by a crack system that starts about 20 feet above the ground and goes from RPs to hands.

Ironic name. The guide book shows a bolt on the initial slab getting to the RP seam, but it is no longer there. The crux is getting established a couple moves into the RP seam, and getting there is definite crater potential.

Start from below and to the right, work your way up and left on a steepening slab to the RP seam. Place several pretty good RPs and keep working upwards, the climbing getting progressively easier and transitioning through the sizes. Rap from 3 bolt anchor. You may need to bring some webbing to "freshen up" the anchor.

When I did this, I had to garden as I went as the crack was loaded with dirt and weeds. With some cleaning, this would be a really good route.

Protection 

RPs to hands.