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Atlantis Slab
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Above the .11 S 
Black Bart (aka Unknown 1) S 
Dam The Water Board T 
Drefach Lambda S 
Fluff Boys T,S 
Hot Lava (aka Soliloquy) T 
Island Rhythm TR 
Leper, The TR 
Mermaid (AKA: unknown 2) S 
Missing The Dike aka Two Dikes for Dinner S 
Natives are Restless, The TR 
No Bore a Bora T 
Sea Serpent (aka: Unknown 4) S 
Seventh Wave T,S 
Snark Hunt T 
This Bolt's For You T 
Tim's Variation TR 
Tim's Walkway S 
Transformer T 
Trident (aka: Unknown 3) TR 
Unknown TR TR 
Unsupervised Bolting S 

This Bolt's For You 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John McMullen, Tim Hudgel, & Carl Rasmussen, 1986
Page Views: 350
Submitted By: slim on Feb 1, 2005  with updates from Jay Eggleston

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The route showing the bolt right of the seam that ...


This route is on Atlantis Slab. It is located towards the right side of the crag, just as a steep, bushy, rocky hill meets the wall. The route is visually obvious by a crack system that starts about 20 feet above the ground and goes from RPs to hands.

It has an ironic name. The guidebook shows a bolt on the initial slab getting to the RP seam, but it [was] no longer there. The crux is getting established a couple moves into the RP seam, and getting there is definite crater potential.

Start from below and to the right, and work your way up and left on a steepening slab to the RP seam. Place several pretty good RPs, and keep working upwards. The climbing getting progressively easier and transitioning through the sizes. Rap from a 3 bolt anchor. In the past, you may have needed to bring some webbing to "freshen up" the anchor.

When I did this, I had to garden as I went as the crack was loaded with dirt and weeds. With some cleaning, this would be a really good route.


RPs to hands.

Per Jay Eggleston: there is a bolt on this now as it has been replaced. The anchor has been replaced too, so there is no reason to carry webbing to "freshen" it up.

Photos of This Bolt's For You Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route with a rope on it.
BETA PHOTO: The route with a rope on it.
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the crack's vegetation.  Beware!
BETA PHOTO: Some of the crack's vegetation. Beware!

Comments on This Bolt's For You Add Comment
Show which comments
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Nov 7, 2010

This is a good route. Even when the bolt was there, it was exciting. I always thought it was more 11a. Maybe it was the scare factor that made it feel harder.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 28, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The bolt has been replaced and is there. The route was posted before the climbs had their bolts replaced though.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 31, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

This is not a bad route, but the leader should carry a nut tool to clean plants and dirt out of the crack. I did this the date of this comment, but if the route is not done again till after the next growing season, there will be new vegetation.

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