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This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,123
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (91)
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Tyler shows off his best side. :-)
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun, little moderate which favors balance over power, grace over brute. This route has evolved over time. It used to sport less bolts, a few odd bits of hardware. As I recall, a good piece of protection used to be a sling over the large flake before the face moves. This is a nice warmup.

To start, you can ease into a few balanced, opposing sidepulls past the first bolt. Then continue up easy but less-protected terrain. Move right to a large flake. Balance up, find the correct sequence of balance and semi-slopers, high step, find a combo mantel/pull/heel hook sequence and you are nearly done. Easy moves with a jam bring you to the anchors. Rap.

This is my favorite 9 at N Table. It is on the fat side of 2 stars...it is Table.

Thanks, Ken!

Myke, I took responsibility for the description, since there was no description for the route.


Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim Slideshow Add Photo
Lauren glides upwards in the March sunshine.
Lauren glides upwards in the March sunshine.
Christa Cline nearing the crux headwall.
Christa Cline nearing the crux headwall.
Route #7 in the photo is "This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim".
BETA PHOTO: Route #7 in the photo is "This Ain't Naturit...
Comments on This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Kneser
Feb 16, 2002

This route is great fun. The bolts are a little run out at the beginning (for North Table) though you can bring along a set of the small tricams or Aliens to fill in the gap easily. This climb gets really fun up at the top on smaller edges and vertical climbing.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 19, 2002

Definitely a 5.9. After the 3rd bolt, the hand and foot holds tighten up. Really fun climb. It was my first lead, and I didn't peel. Know your ability, because it is true to its number.

By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Mar 12, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Some magazine once warned people against adding more bolts to the chossy sandstone at Naturita, Colorado: "This ain't Shelf Road, pilgrim!"

I first did this with just one bolt, #4. Once I figured out that Table wasn't just for 5.11 climbers anymore, I added more bolts, with some help from Mark Rolofson, too. One of my results was that bolt #3 crowds #4. But removing #4 just seemed like a lot of rock-scarring work for no good reason.

An old Access Fund Bulletin photo of a grooved Fixe ring on Naturita's anchor may have helped start the rappel-cleaning preservation endeavor. We determined that it was a flawed hanger. The flaw was a pocket in the rings weld that held it in a fixed place on the hanger for countless threads. Normally the rings flip around and get evenly worn all around. I've seen a lot of Fixe rings getting heavy use and see very little sign of grooving. My conclusion is that these rings have a much longer life than was realized back when the ring on This Ain't Naturita Pilgrim was photographed.

The winch hooks were placed on the anchor 12/15/07.

By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Nov 8, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route right at the top of the trail. The moves on the face are exciting. What is the story with the two bolts so close together?

By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Dec 1, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Very nice route; up there with Brain Cloud as nice GC 5.9s go. Well-protected where it counts, and runout in easy segment between bolts 1 and 2 keeps you on task. Bit balancy at the crux up high, but fun with a bolt at your waist. Well-worn holds felt a bit slippery in today's cold weather, helping earn the grade.

I appreciated bolt #3, Ken, and #4 looks like one of the oldest bolts on the cliff but is still solid.

By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Easier if you are taller than 6'2" or so. You can reach over some difficult moves. You don't have to take gear, but you there is ground fall potential between bolts #1 and #2. Gear might mitigate but the climbing isn't cruxy. You could take a #2 Camalot or so for a crack near the very top, but I don't think you need it.

By Ethan Davis
From: Golden, CO
Jan 17, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First route in Colorado. Height-dependent crux at the roof.

By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 16, 2014

There is a nice variation that starts in the chimney of Natural Fact, moves into the dihedral of the pillar to its left, and continues on the face bit of This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim. Small cams, perhaps even double yellow Aliens/TCUs and a longer sling are useful.