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Third World Lover 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: unknown to me
Page Views: 1,507
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 30, 2005
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Third World Lover

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Description 

This is the left-most route published on the Fin Wall.It is charicterized by it's twin cracks, the left one being 2 meters of blocks and choss to a good hand crack and the right one being an obvious right-facing offset that goes from thing hands to tight tips before opening to perfect hands up higher.Make use of the two cracks, starting right, then moving left quickly to the top of the left crack (it reaches the arete to the left) and then using the right crack to go up and on to a set of anchors.For a challenge, us the left crack only to it's end (5.10c) or the right crack only (5.11d)


Protection 

Thin hands to wide hands, several each. Extra in the 3" range.



Photos of Third World Lover Slideshow Add Photo
Dave on the route.
Dave on the route.
Fun hand jams on a perfect fall day.
Fun hand jams on a perfect fall day.
Comments on Third World Lover Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Apr 1, 2006

The crux is at the start. It is probably easier to stay on the left, even though the rock looks somewhat sus.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 31, 2008

Easier start is up the left crack but it's loose blocks. Right crack start is on the 11+ route. Left crack is fun hands. Gear is a little strange in parts due to broken rock. Take the right hand crack right at the end or you will miss the anchors.

Right 11+ variation is sick and hard. Keeps narrowing down to hard blue alien size tips before you can get a tight hand in there. Don't use the left crack at all if you go this way, no rests. This variation is the reason to come down here. 4 stars for sure!!! Incredible.

CL

By Ian Havlick
Oct 30, 2011

really cool asthetic route. visible from road. last 20ft are crux. bring extra #3 camalots, 1 #4.

By Kelsey Sheely
From: Durango, CO
Oct 8, 2013

Bloom says the right crack is 11-, but I definitely thought it as hard or harder than Way Rambo and Annunaki. 11+ for sure. Both climbs are awesome.