Fun moves but with a relatively short and hard crux, it doesn't get enough mileage in with interesting moves to be really good. Compare to the East Overhang on the 2nd Flatiron, but probably quite a bit harder?
Go up to the Rock, Fi, and wander uphill on its South Side. Just before reaching a notch where a bus-sized boulder lies against the wall a short crack and corner system lead up to a sloping ledge, from which a very odd incut, then flaring, rounded crack pierces an overhang for 10 feet.
Climb up 10' and place a cam, then pass a huge free-standing flake on your left before reaching up and right to mount a sloping ledge. From the ledge, go up and right, then left into the crack and past it (crux) to some slopers- a few moves up and right from the low angle section will take you to the East face, and a belay or directional can be had just uphill, in a crack by a tiny pine tree. This can be seen in the lower left-hand corner of the attached picture of the East Face.
Belay here or continue upward to a good notch after 60M.
You can downclimb the 5.3 slab to the ground at the base of the east face from this belay, or continue to the summit and rap off: See notes on the rock page for Fi.
A cam or two, then throught he crux stoppers and TCUs. The belay above can be done with hand-to-fist sized cams. There are some runouts before and after the crux, and a sloping ledge below the crux, although if you place pro high (strenuous) you should not hit the ledge (hard). The falls I took were safe.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 17, 2003
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
The line saw a psuedo-free ascent last night: Bryson Slothower, 6/16/03 (with gear in place after I lowered off). This route will be rated 5.11c (5.10a, S) and is going to be a booger to-on-sight. The gear at the crux is not all good, but there is a lot of it, Getting it in and set well off of the available holds on that overhang is rough. As well, the crux is a long or very strenuous move- at 6'2" my partner still had to dead-point. I got the move static 3X now, but it burns.
This line is MUCH steeper than it looks.
This line is a great line. The upper section still needs some cleaning of lichen, and possibly of a few small flakes, save that, it is steep and challenging. I'd like to hear from some additional climbers about this one.
5.11b or 5.11c. That's for a red point though, and I think an onsight will be very elusive. I can't grade it for an onsight though, as I did not do it. It still has yet to be lead without a fall while placing the gear.
After the crux there is 20 feet of climbing (progressively easier from 5.10a) without good gear. The fall should be clean due to having passed the overhang, but don't test it.
|By Bryson Slothower|
Jul 20, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
...Third Time is on the left side of the formation.... The route has a short but stout crux on some what questionable gear followed by a 5.10- runout on friable lichen covered rock. Good gear can be placed from a large hold just after making the crux move, but then it's pretty much runout to the top.
Eds. the photocopy once referenced has been deleted. It's unclear how the photocopy got linked.