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Moosedog Tower
Routes Sorted
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Chossy Choad T 
Direct South Face T 
Dogmoose Tower T 
Half Time T 
Lucky Dawg T 
Moosecat T 
Quien Sabe T 
Racing The Sun (aka Lucky Charms) T 
Swink T 
Third Time's a Charm T 
Tranquility T 
Wanderin' into Lichtenstein T 
Wandering Winnebago T 

Third Time's a Charm 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Dominick & Dave Maher, 2/72 FFA: John Long & Keith Cunning, 2/78
Page Views: 1,960
Submitted By: The Gray Tradster on Jul 9, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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Kris Solem stepping up to the bolt. Photo buy Guy ...

Description 

A short way up the gully to the left of the Direct South Face (5.9) is a diagonal crack that runs across most of this face. Climb up some rather poor rock to attain this crack, (don't let this disuade you the rest of the route is stellar!). Follow the crack with a couple of difficult moves near the top, one protected by a bolt. Belay where the route intersects Racing The Sun (AKA Lucky Charms. Continue on that route to the top.

Protection 

Standard trad rack, one bolt (3/8")


Photos of Third Time's a Charm Slideshow Add Photo
Ryan Mattock and I did the duty and replaced the m...
BETA PHOTO: Ryan Mattock and I did the duty and replaced the m...
getting ready to test the friction capabilities of...
getting ready to test the friction capabilities of...
3rd Time Is a Charm ascends the central corner and...
BETA PHOTO: 3rd Time Is a Charm ascends the central corner and...
Moosedog Tower - SW Face
BETA PHOTO: Moosedog Tower - SW Face
Bolt location on the climb
BETA PHOTO: Bolt location on the climb

Comments on Third Time's a Charm Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 4, 2009
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 23, 2003

Can be done as one 190' pitch with little to no rope drag.
By Woody Stark
Nov 18, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I followed this route so I feel my rating can be cooly objective. 5.10B, it isn't. I'd say 5.10C/D. I did a layback on the crux. Also, if I remember correctly, getting the few feet up to the crux was interesting too. The leader will have a bolt to protect the crux move.
By The Gray Tradster
Nov 18, 2003

It's significantly easier if you do a face move a little to the left rather than forcing your way up the lieback. May be height dependent that way though.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 9, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I'm going to agree with the 10b rating, which I believe after doing it to the left, on-sight. It seemed to 'read' as the easiest and most logical sequeunce. Sans bolt, I might have pro'd the crack and gone straight up, which looked harder, and a shave runout.The unique thing about this climb is how relatively easy and well protected all of the rest of the climb is. Given the short crux and the well protected nature of it and the rest of the climb, this might be a great 'first 10b' for some leaders.
By Joe Brophy
From: San Diego
Nov 14, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I would agree that the crux protects well. My only real concern was that I was clipping a 1/4" bolt for the crux moves. You do have good gear about 8' below the bolt though.
By Bo Johnston
Feb 22, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Very clean and nice route. Crux is well protected adding some fun to it!
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 25, 2007

Stating that this route is "clean & well protected" is a bit of a stretch. But, it is some good climbing. Lower portion is very grainy and takes poor pro making it not worth the trouble. Midway as the crack cleans up and starts to head left in the varnished bowl you can cam a pod with a #2 camalot or use some medium sized nuts for some mystery flakes or horizontals.

Before reaching the bolt (old SMC with 1/4" button) you can cam another grungy pod in the crack with a #3 camalot or .75 cam in a horizontal below the bolt to protect the move. (I opted for the horizontal). A few face moves later, bolt clipped you'll be on your way - that #3 cam you saved is a nice fit in the flare just above the bolt. The routes angle eases quite a bit from here and it's easy climbing to the top.

Bring some long slings for some chicken-heads for an anchor.

Enjoy the sun and lack of crowds!

~Susan
By Kris Solem
From: Monrovia, CA
Jan 6, 2009
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

As of Jan 6, 2009 the bolt is new. Ryan Mattock and I went up there and replaced it with a nice 3/8" 5 piece rawl. Ryan did the work. I was the driver...

The old bolt came out with no resistance. I attached a pic of it to this page for the heck of it...
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 6, 2009

Nice work, Ryan and Kris. Thanks for your efforts.
By ryan mattock
Jan 6, 2009

Ksolem, rebolting was a "mission accomplished" today. The bolt was quite easy to remove.
today we gave that route a complete make over. I'm going to put the old bolt in a sandwich bag with today's date and give it to Largo the next time I see him at malibu.
anyway, bolt replaced 01/06/09.
By Iztok Marjanovic
Apr 4, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I think this is a 5.10d. Maybe I don't have the reach to make it a 10b or maybe I didn't go the right way. But I spent a good bit of time staring up there at that bolt, trying a move, backing off, trying something else, and then just going. 5.10d is my vote.

Thanks for the new bolt!