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Third Tier

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Crack Land 
Southwest Buttress 
Wall of the Dragon 
Wall of the Goddess 
West Gully 

Third Tier  


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Location: 39.99863, -105.41169 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features.

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Description 

The Third Tier of Avalon is high and remote; few climbers venture up here. But those that do will be rewarded with great views, and a wilder, "adventure climbing" feel away from the crowds down below.

The first route up here was Black Tiger, established in 1989. However, most of the routes are fairly new. Richard Rossiter has been active up here recently, putting up a number of new routes in 2005 and 2006. Some of the new routes are sport routes, but some are trad crack climbs. Bring a full trad rack with hand, fist, and wider pro if you want to do the crack routes.

Be prepared for some moss and lichen on many of these new routes, since the rock faces more to the north and the routes haven't seen much traffic. If you want to perform a community service, bring a wire brush along and help clean up the routes.

A decent trail traverses the entire Third Tier, starting from the Southwest Buttress on the right, going all the way over to Crack Land on the left.

The areas of the Third Tier, from R->L:

Southwest Buttress - Called the Summit Pyramid in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook. The first area you get to on the Third Tier. A smooth wall on the right side of the Third Tier, home to The Solution (10c), Black Tiger (11c) and Jaguar (11c).

Wall of the Goddess - Several hundred feet left of the Southwest Buttress. A short wall with two bolted anchors and several trad crack climbs: Isis (9+), Yoni (8), and Amrita (10c).

West Gully - just beyond the Wall of the Goddess and up a gully to the right. Five new routes: Merlin's Enigma (11d), Charon's Boat (9), Knight of Swords (10c), Dragon Direct (9), and Sorcerer's Apprentice (8).

Wall of the Dragon - the remote area above the West Gully. Two new sport routes: Dragon Fly (9) and Dragon Slayer (10b).

Crack Land - starts just left of the West Gully. Mystery Ship (10c) is just beyond the gully. Farther to the left lie Ancient Light (10c), Ancient Fright (10c), and Resurrection (9). The latter route takes you to the summit of Avalon, a wild but peaceful place with superb views.

New routes in Crack Land in 2006 include The Art of War (10c), Thus Us (9), The Enemy Within (9), War Horse (10d), Crack Love (10a), Crack Love II (9), Crack Love III (10c), Ghost Ship (10a), Ship of Fools (10b), Mystery Tour (9), and Blade (11a). The Art of War is a sport climb; all the others are trad crack climbs.

Getting There 

From the Wall of the Dead on the Second Tier, take a trail around to the right and up the hill. The trail meets the Third Tier at the right side, and cuts back left underneath the Southwest Buttress. The trail continues downstream, staying fairly level most of the way, all the way over to Crack Land.

Continuing on the trail beyond Crack Land takes you to Wizard Rock.

Climbing Season


32 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',23],['1 Star',7],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',2],['5.9',7],['5.10',17],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Third Tier:
Crack Love II   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Crack Land
Mystery Tour   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Crack Land
The Enemy Within   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Crack Land
Dragon Slayer   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Wall of the Dragon
Ship of Fools   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Crack Land
The Art Of War   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Crack Land
Ancient Light   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'   Crack Land
Knight of Swords   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   West Gully
Blade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Crack Land
Browse More Classics in Third Tier

Featured Route For Third Tier
Mystery Ship starts about 20' left of Merlin's Enigma by a large pine tree. <br /> <br />The route is very dirty and needs a thorough cleaning.  There's a hard move at the first bolt, a spicy runout between the second and third bolts, and a challenging headwall at the fourth bolt that seemed much harder than 10a.

Mystery Ship 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Crack Land
The 3 crack climbs, Mystery Ship, Ship of Fools, & Mystery Tour (aka Crack Land Dihedral) begin from a common system and branch to individual lines after the first 30 feet. These 3 climbs were once organized (called Crack Land) under a sub-area for the Northeast Face (now renamed Crack Land). Begin about 10 feet left of Mystery Ship and follow vague, blocky terrain to where the lines diverge (5.6, gear to 1 inch, 30 feet). All 3 lines top out at the belay tree for Drag...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Third Tier
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Avalon Upper Wall Routes.  Photo taken from Upper Animal World.
BETA PHOTO: Avalon Upper Wall Routes. Photo taken from Upper ...

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