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Crack Land 
Southwest Buttress 
Wall of the Dragon 
Wall of the Goddess 
West Gully 

Third Tier 


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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Avalon, showing most of the major features.

Note:...


Description 

The Third Tier of Avalon is high and remote; few climbers venture up here. But those that do will be rewarded with great views, and a wilder, "adventure climbing" feel away from the crowds down below.

The first route up here was Black Tiger, established in 1989. However, most of the routes are fairly new. Richard Rossiter has been active up here recently, putting up a number of new routes in 2005 and 2006. Some of the new routes are sport routes, but some are trad crack climbs. Bring a full trad rack with hand, fist, and wider pro if you want to do the crack routes.

Be prepared for some moss and lichen on many of these new routes, since the rock faces more to the north and the routes haven't seen much traffic. If you want to perform a community service, bring a wire brush along and help clean up the routes.

A decent trail traverses the entire Third Tier, starting from the Southwest Buttress on the right, going all the way over to Crack Land on the left.

The areas of the Third Tier, from R->L:

Southwest Buttress - Called the Summit Pyramid in Rossiter's Boulder Canyon guidebook. The first area you get to on the Third Tier. A smooth wall on the right side of the Third Tier, home to The Solution (10c), Black Tiger (11c) and Jaguar (11c).

Wall of the Goddess - Several hundred feet left of the Southwest Buttress. A short wall with two bolted anchors and several trad crack climbs: Isis (9+), Yoni (8), and Amrita (10c).

West Gully - just beyond the Wall of the Goddess and up a gully to the right. Five new routes: Merlin's Enigma (11d), Charon's Boat (9), Knight of Swords (10c), Dragon Direct (9), and Sorcerer's Apprentice (8).

Wall of the Dragon - the remote area above the West Gully. Two new sport routes: Dragon Fly (9) and Dragon Slayer (10b).

Crack Land - starts just left of the West Gully. Mystery Ship (10c) is just beyond the gully. Farther to the left lie Ancient Light (10c), Ancient Fright (10c), and Resurrection (9). The latter route takes you to the summit of Avalon, a wild but peaceful place with superb views.

New routes in Crack Land in 2006 include The Art of War (10c), Thus Us (9), The Enemy Within (9), War Horse (10d), Crack Love (10a), Crack Love II (9), Crack Love III (10c), Ghost Ship (10a), Ship of Fools (10b), Mystery Tour (9), and Blade (11a). The Art of War is a sport climb; all the others are trad crack climbs.


Getting There 

From the Wall of the Dead on the Second Tier, take a trail around to the right and up the hill. The trail meets the Third Tier at the right side, and cuts back left underneath the Southwest Buttress. The trail continues downstream, staying fairly level most of the way, all the way over to Crack Land.

Continuing on the trail beyond Crack Land takes you to Wizard Rock.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Third Tier:
Crack Love II   5.9-     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Crack Land
Mystery Tour   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Crack Land
The Enemy Within   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Crack Land
Dragon Slayer   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Wall of the Dragon
Ship of Fools   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Crack Land
The Art Of War   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Crack Land
Knight of Swords   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   West Gully
Ancient Light   5.10c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet   Crack Land
Crack Love III   5.10c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet   Crack Land
Blade   5.11a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet   Crack Land
Browse More Classics in Third Tier

Featured Route For Third Tier
Isis, a physical finger-to-fist crack on the Wall of the Goddess.  The crux is the wide section near the top, where good jams are hard to come by.

Isis 5.10a  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Wall of the Goddess
Approach: Hike up around the right side of the Wall of the Dead to the upper tier of Avalon. Traverse left on a trail below the routes Jaguar and Black Tiger. After about 100 yards, you'll see a 35-foot-high wall on the right with two 2-bolt anchors, and several cracks lacing the wall. This is the Wall of the Goddess.Isis is the prominent finger-to-fist crack on the right. It starts behind a pine tree close to the wall.Climb the crack and step left to the 2-bolt anchor. I used Aliens and Ca...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Third Tier Slideshow Add Photo
Avalon Upper Wall Routes.  Photo taken from Upper Animal World.

BETA PHOTO: Avalon Upper Wall Routes. Photo taken from Upper ...