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Third Stone From The Sun 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 485'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Harrison, Steve Miller, Jay Smith, 1977.
Page Views: 984
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 19, 2006

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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb a huge flake to the right of "Vanishing Point" for two 5.9 pitches to a 12' roof. Climb the wide crack through the roof. Above the roof, walk left then climb to the bowl of "Craven Image". Follow that route to the top.

Protection 

Pro to 4".


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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jan 22, 2007

i just heard a neat story about this route yesterday. I guess there were at one time 3 chockstones in the roof crack, hence the route name. You'd pull the chockstones to get through. Now, there are zero chockstones, and I've heard pulling this roof is .11+ maybe...
By Max Joseph
From: Boulder, CO
May 19, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Tried this last weekend, climbing the first pitch of Vanishing Point to approach the roof crack. The OW roof is definitely harder than 5.10c (unless 1.this is a complete sandbag or 2.I am a complete weenie); 5.11+ is probably more correct. I resorted to aid. This part might be somewhat height dependent. Instead of going left above the 2nd pitch, my partner and I cut out right for one pitch of poorly protected face climbing and then a final pitch that was easy but loose to the top. Going left may have been a better option.
By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 25, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The chockstones are all still there, surprisingly enough. The first pitch of Third Stone is a very strenuous 5.10 with wild exposure, some loose rock, fiddly pro in sections and very sustained. There is a belay directly under the offwidth roof formed by a nest of webbing around a large horn. Do not belay here! Though a decent stance and nice perch to watch the action from, your leader will be pulling the OW roof directly above you and those chockstones mentioned above, are mega loose and about the size of bowling balls. The leader should continue up to directly below the roof where a hidden anchor of pins and fixed nuts awaits. There is also conveniently a nice little seat there to watch the action from.

Pitch two is the business. Instead of going through the wide roof, just to the right is another option over the roof. Mostly easy, it does have a burly hard flaring hand jam move or three to some very ungraceful thrutching in a short flaring corner. Probably about .11+
If going the Offwidth way, you'll find the first chockstone loose but solidly wedged, meaning it's loose but won't fall out. The second chockstone is solid all around but the third rolls if pulled outward on. You have to undercling around the back side to keep in in there while pulling on it and you WILL need to pull on it. This roof kinda reminds me of the Harding Slot on Astroman, zero feet, bad hands, totally overhanging... I almost yacked! Once you somehow manage to Houdini your upper half high enough with no holds, armbars, or anything, you'll be able to contort your body (theoretically) into a pretzel allowing you to get your feet up high enough to touch something useful. Your foot friction is critical at this point as you scum your ass up and reach for an actual hold. From there, it's the most difficult 5.2 jug haul of your life to the ledge where you will probably collapse... Belayer, please allow your leader an extra 10min for setting up anchor, you'll find out why soon enough. This offwidth roof in comparison to other offwidths of the grade is just a tad sandbagged. Probably more like .11a but not much harder.
By Eric Gabel
Sep 17, 2013

There is a very reasonable 5.10c way to do this roof for those with enough imagination to think a little differently about the climbing moves.