This route climbs a section of red stone perpendicular to the main orientation of Cactus Cliff. Look for the left wall of a right-facing dihedral. Even with updated gear, the bolt locations and frequency might offer some excitement for a climber at his or her limit who is used to the modern style of bolting on most Shelf routes.
I thought this climb was one of the best 5.10s at Shelf. Instead of mindless pocket grabbing and big ledges, this route offers genuinely thoughtful climbing. I agree that several bolts aren't in quite the right place but the slightly runout feel of the route adds something interesting without actual danger. And I don't remember any problem with getting to the anchor.
This route has been re-bolted again since the last time I climbed it 2 years ago. I didn't get on it but the bolting looks sound and takes a nice direct line up the slab. (Now if somebody could take care of the sharpness :)
Dave, et al - With the assistance of Lauren Sigman, I re-equipped this route last November as part of a volunteerism day (in a similar spirit of Celebrate Eldorado) organized by Mark Hesse and the Rocky Mt. Field Institute. In doing so we had the arduous task of removing about a half-dozen rusty 1/4" star-drives split shaft bolts and home made hangers. All old bolt holes were restored to hide any potential scars, and new stainless steel bolts and hangers were placed in the general location of the originals. It took something on the order of 5 hours for two of us to complete the work - ouch, my legs were numb from hangin' in that harness for so long. It is worthy to note that first ascentionist Bob Robertson drilled this route ground-up style about 15 years ago. I suspect this explains the "sporty" nature of the route (I prefer to call it "old style sport climbing"). Peter, I couldn't agree more with your characterization of this being a fine route. Dave, you'll note most of the critical holds were conservatively comfortized when we re-equipped it and I think you'd have a fine time on it now, although you'll still find an occasional "sharpie". Enjoy :~)
This climb is good to throw in the mix if you are out at Cactus Cliff for the day. Although this might be thought provoking once you've done a few other Shelf routes (not suggesting Shelf is overbolted, spend the day at Muir Valley at the Red River Gorge and you'll see true bolt ladders) this route has bolts exactly where you need them. Reminds me of the typical bolting style at the New River Gorge and earlier Red River Gorge. Not a route I'll keep doing, but a really awesome route to do at least once.
Great route, scary lead. Stay off this one if .10c is pushing your limits; there is potential for a 25' fall and the low angle and good friction of the rock will take your ankle. Kudos to hardman Bob R for bolting such a bold lead ground up.
Not my favorite, but nonetheless it was well worth one go and a good lead it was. It's a little different than everything else around here and in my book deserved some extra credit for the spicy lead over a cheesegrater rock and for the bold, ground up bolting.
By Jordan Hirro From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri Dec 2, 2013
Not really the biggest fan of slab, but this was great. The holds are sharp, and the route a bit interesting. Great warmup.