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 ADVANCED
Third Flatiron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1911 Gully T 
Blazing Biners T,S 
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 
Dog's Head Cutoff T 
East Face (Standard) T 
East Face Left T 
Extra Point T 
Falcon's Fracture T 
Friday's Folly T 
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 
Funny Games T,TR 
Greenman's Crack T,TR 
Holier than Thou S 
Inner Sanctum T 
Northwest Passage T 
Pentaprance T 
Ph.D. Roof T 
Right Of Spring T 
Saturday's Folly T 
Sayonara T,S 
Shoyu State S 
South Chimney T 
Southwest Chimney T 
Super Woo T 
Thin Crack T 
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 
Third World Zone T 
Unknown (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 
Waiting For Columbus T,S 
West Door T 
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 
Winky Woo T 
Wrongs of Fall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Third Kingdom/Papillion 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: In Rossiter's book
Page Views: 2,334
Submitted By: Andrew Klein on Oct 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO
  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Awesome route and wild exposure! This route takes the huge overhanging/slanting dihedral at the top of the 3rd's North Face. The best approach is by doing Northwest Passage. However, you can reach the big C-shaped gap at the start of the dihedral from College Dropout or another close by East Face route.

    From the belay at the gap, place a #0 TCU, do a couple face moves and then step out into the void. The whole route can be aided clean (which is the way I did it) with a set of TCUs and cams. There are two fixed pins and a fixed nut with a huge wire on it, in the dihedral. Every placement is bomber.

    A small smattering of bird crap will not bother you (if your aiding it) as you enjoy the incredible exposure on this climb. About 3/4 of the way through the dihedral a small crack leads out and onto the east face, where some runout 5.7 climbing takes you to the top (use slings, quickdraws if you want to eliminate drag).


    Protection 

    A set of TCUs and a few cams (0.5 to 2).



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