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Third Flatiron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1911 Gully 
Blazing Biners 
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side 
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline 
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe 
Dog's Head Cutoff 
East Face (Standard) 
East Face Left 
Extra Point 
Falcon's Fracture 
Friday's Folly 
Friday's Folly Direct 
Funny Games 
Greenman's Crack 
Holier than Thou 
Inner Sanctum 
Northwest Passage 
Ph.D. Roof 
Right Of Spring 
Saturday's Folly 
Shoyu State 
South Chimney 
Southwest Chimney 
Super Woo 
Thin Crack 
Third Kingdom/Papillion 
Third World Zone 
Unknown (formerly entered as Problem Child) 
Waiting For Columbus 
West Door 
West Face [3rd Flatrion] 
Winky Woo 
Wrongs of Fall 
Unsorted Routes:

Third Kingdom/Papillion 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: In Rossiter's book
Page Views: 2,205
Submitted By: Andrew Klein on Oct 1, 2001
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  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Awesome route and wild exposure! This route takes the huge overhanging/slanting dihedral at the top of the 3rd's North Face. The best approach is by doing Northwest Passage. However, you can reach the big C-shaped gap at the start of the dihedral from College Dropout or another close by East Face route.

    From the belay at the gap, place a #0 TCU, do a couple face moves and then step out into the void. The whole route can be aided clean (which is the way I did it) with a set of TCUs and cams. There are two fixed pins and a fixed nut with a huge wire on it, in the dihedral. Every placement is bomber.

    A small smattering of bird crap will not bother you (if your aiding it) as you enjoy the incredible exposure on this climb. About 3/4 of the way through the dihedral a small crack leads out and onto the east face, where some runout 5.7 climbing takes you to the top (use slings, quickdraws if you want to eliminate drag).


    A set of TCUs and a few cams (0.5 to 2).

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