Third Buttress Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The Elephant Buttresses. Most routes start off th...
The Third Buttress is the most popular of the Elephant Buttresses & is home to a number of good, moderate routes on solid rock: Standard Route
, 7+; Monster Woman
, 8+; Wingtip
, 10c; Left Wing
, 10c; What's Up?
, 10d; and the impressive FM
, 11c. This area can be quite popular. It does have the unique aspect that multiple of its routes start on or near an old pipeline.
Some routes start up a gully between the Second and Third Buttress, and others start right off the water pipe. Routes here are 1-2 pitches long. No bolts here.
, 8+, 1p, gear.
, 10, 1p, 65', gear.
C. Left Wing
, 10, 1p, gear.
D. Pegasus?, 11, 1p, gear.
E. Misdirected?, 11+, 1p, gear.
F. What's Up.?
, 10+, 1p, gear.
GF. Frequency Modulation
, 11+, 1p, 130', gear.
, 11, 1-2p, gear.
H. Kangaroof?, 11, 2p, gear.
I. Mojo Rising
, 9, 190', gear.
J?. No Mo' Jo'
, 11+, 1-2p, gear.
K. Variation?, 9+, 2p, gear.
L. Standard Route
, 7+, 2p, 190', gear.
M. Monster Woman
, 9-, 2p, 190', gear.
N. Ah Maw
?, 10- R, 2p, 190', gear.
O. West Face
, 7, 1-2p, 170', gear.
Cross the bridge, go R, go up to the water pipe, and walk right, past the First and Second Buttress, to the Third Buttress. There are several prominent cables anchored from the pipe to the rock.
There are multiple options: 1) The most commonly used descent is the 4th class to low 5th class downclimb down the ramp, but this is exposed. This is not advisable with beginners or in the rain. 2) Scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress and rappel 90' from the tree atop Pine Tree Route
. 3) If the water level is low enough, you can take the water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet; watch your head in the tunnel. 4) If you're not in a hurry, you can walk down between the First Buttress and the Dome, and walk the water pipe back to the Third Buttress.
Weather station 2.2 miles from here
14 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Third Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Third Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Third Buttress:
Ah Maw 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Left Wing 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Wingtip 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
PG13 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
What's Up? 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches
FM 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch
Featured Route For Third Buttress
Left Wing 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b CO
: Boulder Canyon
: ... : Third Buttress
Cool route with interesting moves. My limited trad experience kept my evaluation to a modest two stars.The route starts about halfway up the 4th class gully between the second and third buttresses. The climb itself is on the third Buttress. Begin by traversing right across a ledge into the obvious dihedral. Some small, good placements will get you up to a new bolt that protects a few feet below the roof and the first crux. Clip this and then a fixed Friend in the overhead crack. My buddy w...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
BETA PHOTO: Third Buttress 1. Standard Route (7+) 2. West Face...
By Flatirons Climbing Council
Mar 25, 2014
The entire Third Elephant Buttress has re-opened for climbing. We organized a small volunteer effort to gently remove a 120+ pound loose rock on the popular Standard Route (5.7+) that threatened whatever may have been in its path climber, belayer, or the steel water pipe. Big thanks to ubiquitous do-gooder Mike McHugh for his technical expertise as he continues to support the Front Range community through his selfless heavy-lifting!
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Apr 19, 2009
Does anyone know what the route that goes to the right of the end of the Standard Route on the top part of the Third Elephant Buttress? I got to it by climbing up the far right side of the Third Elephant Buttress. It fires right up twin slightly-overhanging cracks that has a fixed nut in the right one just below the crux. It spit me off a few times today, and I want to know its grade.... for purely selfish reasons.