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Things Fall Apart T 

Things Fall Apart 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Jason Huston
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,758
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 7, 2009

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This amazing line deserves a photo.

Description 

This amazing splitter is surely one of the best pitches in The Monument. Formerly an aid route, this splitter now goes free and should rank high on any desert crack climber's to-do list. The route splits an otherwise blank, streaked wall right in the middle of the Tiaro Rado climbing area and consists of 3 cruxes.

To begin, climb up some Chinle to the roof, plug in a couple pieces from a stance here and get ready. Tips locks and a couple crimps lead over the roof (protect this section with a #1 TCU as a green Alien is too big), make a desperate stab to another tips lock and a couple more moves lead to good fingers. Unfortunately, the good fingers are short lived; baggy fingers lead to ring locks up a slightly overhanging and slightly leaning crux. Push through the remaining ring locks and savor a couple perfect hand jam pods. Rest in these and prepare for the upcoming finish - 0.5s that slowly narrow down to tips. A couple final, big moves between tips locks lead over the mini-roof and to the anchors.


Location 

This splitter should be fairly obvious, climbing a beautiful, streaked wall approximately 100' right of where the trail meets the cliff.


Protection 

Blue TCUs through #0.75s with one #2 Camalot. I found one blue TCU to be mandatory as the crack was too thin for a green Alien or blue BD over the roof. The anchors have chains and biners. Bring a tooth brush as this can get a bit dirty after a heavy rain.



Photos of Things Fall Apart Slideshow Add Photo
The beginning roof.
The beginning roof.
Things Fall Apart.
Things Fall Apart.
Comments on Things Fall Apart Add Comment
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By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Nov 7, 2009

Nice work, Jason. Never climbed in the Monument, but this thing sounds amazing! Inmight have to make a trip soon....

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Nov 8, 2009

Another amazing send by the Famous Huston! Nice work, Jason.

By Matthew Seymour
From: 1996 Dodge Van, USA
Nov 8, 2009

Nice dude! I've looked at this thing many times and dreamt of being that strong. This is probably the hardest free route in Junction.

By Jesse Zacher
Administrator
From: Grand Junction, Co
Nov 9, 2009

Nice Send!

By Jay Brown
From: Aspen, Colorado
Nov 9, 2009

Nice!!!

By Matt McCormick
Nov 13, 2009

Nice job, Jason! Looks awesome!

By Rschap
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 29, 2009

Is that the Student Aid route thatís listed in Desert Rock III? Nice work on freeing it if it is (well even if itís not) that line looked hard.

By dameeser
From: denver
Apr 8, 2013

This route should have more stars. I won't rate this climb, since I did not send it, but it's pretty amazing.